Cortina d’Ampezzo and sport climbing
The many sport climbing rock faces around Cortina offer climbers around 2,000 pitches to try, a truly significant number that is growing thanks to the constant hard work and undoubted passion that have always been a feature of those working to provide climbers with a new and ever-changing playground.
But it is certainly not just the number of pitches that attracts climbers from all over the world: sport climbing in Cortina means being in one of the most beautiful places in the world, set in a natural environment that offers indescribable views and unforgettable thrills.
Ernest Hemingway, who had seen a great many places, wrote thus in a letter to E.Walsh: “Cortina d’Ampezzo is the swellest country on earth. The people are good and square, too. We spent the end of winter there once, at the Hotel Bellevue. Liugie Menard proprietor. It is the loveliest country I’ve ever known”. (see here)
Yes, a beautiful place where the original community has collectively owned forests and meadows for centuries, and the area has been carefully protected from building and abuse.
But let’s get back to sport climbing, the central theme of this post.
Crags and sport climbing
Difficulty
The crags offer routes of varying difficulty; everyone can find a crag suitable for their abilities, from beginners to climbing experts. The latter can test themselves on some challenging routes: the highest grade reached here in Cortina, for now, is 9a, there are also 8c+ and 8c routes, and numerous routes range from 8a to 8b.
Beginners will have the opportunity to refine their technique on some well-equipped crags (Sass de Stria, Lagazuoi, Crepo Longo) that also allow less experienced climbers to have fun safely, without worrying about long falls, thanks to closely spaced bolts.
If you love (difficult) slab climbing, you’ll have your work cut out for you at Sòn Pòuses. It’s a crag that’s not very crowded —hard to encounter anyone, perhaps because slabs are no longer in fashion.
Type of climbing
There’s something for everyone! From the smooth slabs at Son Pouses to the overhangs of Becco d’Ajal, from the short and intense pitches at Sasso dei Finanzieri to the long and sustained pitches at Rio Gere and Setsas.The sport crags around Cortina feature a variety of different rock types and features: crimps, pockets, slopers, yellow, red, grey, and black rock.
There are no ribs; however, these are not found in the Dolomites.
Crags equipment
The Cortina Squirrels work hard to maintain the climbing cliffs at their best. All walls are well-equipped with bolts and chains at the belay stations.
The routes with outdated equipment are very few, and they will be fixed as soon as possible. As for rope length, I recommend a 70-meter rope. However, in some cliffs, such as Becco d’Ajal and Rio Gere, an 80-meter rope is indispensable for climbing the most beautiful routes.
On some faces, such as Cinque Torri, where both sport climbing and traditional multi-pitch routes are available, helmets are advisable. Otherwise, you need standard sports climbing equipment.
Climate
During the summer, from mid-June to the beginning of August, the climate is pleasantly warm during the day and cool at night.
From July to the end of August, thunderstorms sometimes occur in the afternoon. A warm sunny day can transform into a kind of hell in less than an hour. Considering the wind chill factor, the temperature can drop by up to 15 degrees. I suggest that you always wear suitable clothing, however.
Crags
There is a specific page on climbing rock faces in the Cortina d’Ampezzo area, but it is, in any case, an incomplete list. If you want to climb in this area, I would recommend that you buy this guide to Cortina’s crags and sport climbs.
Guide to Cortina’s Sport Climbing
As far as climbing guides are concerned, last year, Falesie a Cortina d’Ampezzo was published, an excellent book which I reviewed thoroughly here. The review is in Italian, but the guidebook is in three languages: Italian, English, and German.
Some rules of environmental respect and behavior
When practicing climbing on the walls, it is crucial to respect the surrounding environment and follow rules to preserve the natural beauty and ensure everyone’s safety. Although it should be redundant to remind mountain and climbing enthusiasts about environmental respect, I still recall some rules to observe:
- Carry away everything you bring with you: do not leave any waste or food traces. Also, take away cigarette butts.
- Bodily needs: avoid relieving yourself too close to the climbing walls, for hygiene reasons, and out of respect for other climbers.
- Silence: keep your voice down to avoid disturbing other climbers.
- Interact with respect: respect locals and other climbers. Maintain a positive and collaborative attitude.
- Camping: do not pitch tents near the cliffs; in Cortina and surrounding areas, camping is permitted only at designated, authorized campsites. Do not light fires.
- Respect access rules: some cliffs may have temporary or permanent restrictions. Follow local guidelines.
- Equipment: do not remove or alter any cliff equipment.
- Cars, campers: do not park on the grass.
When to go to the Dolomites?
The best time is from late May to October, but November can be good too if the snow has not yet fallen.
Whilst there are exceptions, Cortina’s winters are generally too cold for climbing.
Cortina d’Ampezzo
How to get there
Cortina d’Ampezzo is in the north of the Veneto region, 44 km from the Austrian border. There are no trains to Cortina itself, and the nearest train stations are Calalzo di Cadore to the south and Dobbiaco (Toblach) to the north. From these stations, you will need to get a bus to Cortina (40 minutes – 1 hour).
By car, the town is less than an hour from the A27 motorway (Pian de Vedoia) and an hour and a quarter from the A22 Brennero Bressanone-Val Pusteria exit.
There are also bus services to and from Venice, Treviso, and Bologna airports.
The Cortina Express Bus (www.cortinaexpress.it) and AVTO Bus (www.atvo.it) operate direct buses from Venice to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Go to the websites for schedules and more information. The bus takes about 2-3 hours.
Accommodations
There is a vast range of hotels and B&Bs, and four camp sites in Cortina. It is also easy to rent an apartment (but you need to book ahead, or there will be very little available)—more general information on the FAQ page.
Need more detailed information?
Please write to me, I’ll be happy to reply! My English isn’t the best, and you’ll find a few mistakes in my answers, but I’m a local climbing guide and I can certainly be of help.