Rock climbing grades and conversions. The 5 most used systems.

Different rock climbing grades across the five most popular systems

There are a variety of different systems used around the world to define rock climbs grades. Below you will find a table that compares the different climbing grades across the five most popular systems. In addition, the skill level of the climber has also been included. The difficulties are listed in increasing order of difficulty.

Roped climbing

French
The French system is an internationally recognised system for grading sport climbs and is therefore used on bolted routes within the UK.
UIAA
This system is used in Germany, in other areas of Eastern Europe and in Italy for the classic trad routes.
United States
Yosemite Decimal System(YDS) is a grading system commonly found in the United States, starts with a 5.something.
Grades 1 to 4 refer to walks of increasing difficulty, by the time you reach 5 you are assumed to be scrambling over rocks which equates to about 5.0.
Sub-Grade (Yosemite Decimal System).
The sub-grade ranges from 1 to a theoretically infinite number (today the highest number is 15). The number is increased when a ‘harder’ climb is developed.
Great Britain
The UK system is made of two sub-grades, an adjective grade and a technical grade. The adjective grade describes the overall difficulty of the climb taking into consideration how strenuous the route is, the amount of exposure and the availability of protection.
The adjective grades are as follows: Moderate (M), Very Difficult (VD), Hard Very Difficult HVD), Mild Severe (MS), Severe (S), Hard Severe (HS), Mild Very Severe (MVS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS) and Extremely Severe. The Extremely Severe grade is also broken down into 10 further sub grades from E1 to E11.
The numerical technical grading describes the hardest (crux) move on the climb. For a brief explanation of UK traditional climbing grades follow this link.
Australian
The system used in Australia and New Zealand is perhaps the most logical of all. There are no letters secondary grades, just a single number which gets bigger as the routes get harder.

Rock climbing grades

France	UIAA	YDS	GB		AUS	Level
1	I	5	3a			Novice ↓
2	II	5.1/5.2	3b		11
3	III	5.3/5.4	3c		12
4a	IV	5.5	4a	VD	13	Beginner ↓
4b	IV+	5.6	4b	S	14
4c	V	5.7	4c	HS	15
5a	V+	5.8		VS	16
5b	VI-	5.9	5a	HVS	17	Intermediate ↓
5c	VI	5.10a		E1	18
6a	VI+	5.10b	5b		19
6a+	VII-	5.10c		E2	20
6b	VII	5.10d	5c		21
6b+	VII+	5.11a		E3	22	Advanced ↓
6c	VIII-	5.11b			23
6c+	VIII	5.11c	6a	E4	24
7a	VIII+	5.11d			25
7a+	IX-	5.12a		E5	26
7b	IX- IX	5.12b	6b			Expert ↓
7b+	IX	5.12c		E6	27
7c	IX IX+	5.12d	6c		28
7c+	IX+	5.13a		E7	29
8a	IX+ X-	5.13b				Super Expert ↓
8a+	X-	5.13c	7a		30
8b	X	5.13d		E8	31	Elite ↓
8b+	X+	5.14a			32
8c	X+ XI-	5.14b	7b		33
8c+	XI-	5.14c		E9	34
9a	XI	5.14d	7c		35	Super Elite ↓
9a+	XI+	5.15a			36
9b	XII-	5.15b			37
9b+	XII	5.15c			38
9c	XII+	5.15d			39	Aliens

Download climbing grades table (PDF) for your mobile!

Rock climbing grades

Climbers mainly use two rating systems for rope climbing, according to geographical location: FRENCH scale and YDS. Speaking about rock climbing grades, there are not only the systems listed above but also others difficulty rating systems. For example: South Africa, Brazil, Finnish, Swedish. Click on this link to see other systems for measuring difficulties in climbing.

Rock climbing grades, bear in mind that:

the system for assessing how difficult the climb is is subjective. As much as you can try, there is no perfect way of ranking climbs. The various systems have improved over the years, however the fact remains that climbing is a highly individualistic and subjective sport. Our differences make us stronger in some areas, weaker in others. Hence, it is impossible to put together a perfect system for evaluating climbs. But this is what makes our sport special!

Bouldering

Bouldering is a simplified and often “social” version of rope climbing. In fact, in this case no rope and harness are used, because it climbs extremely difficult short routes (also known as problems). The heights are limited, so you climb not too far from the ground. Bouldering is a great way to increase your confidence and technique, and it’s a lot of fun!

Bouldering consists in climbing (up to a maximum height of about 7-8 meters) to solve particular sequences of movements linked and dynamic, usually few (8-10), but extremely difficult.
Climbing more than 7-8 metres are considered dangerous solo climb.

In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing.

Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco “V” grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, and more.
The V scale was developed in the USA and is a system that currently starts with VB for the simplest bouldering problems and goes all the way up to V17 for super experienced professionals.

The Fontainebleau Scale was born in France and is the most used boulder rating scale in Europe. The scale starts at 1 (although you will rarely see a boulder route easier than 3) and goes up to 9. Like the French scale, it also uses the letters “a”, “b” and “c” along with symbols + and – to further subdivide the grades.

You can read a very detailed article about bouldering grades here: www.99boulders.com.

Drawing by Claudio Getto “Caio Comix”

Hueco (USA)	Fontainebleau
VB	3
V0-	4-
V0	4
V0+	4+
V1	5
V2	5+
V3	6A
	6A+
V4	6B
	6B+
V5	6C
	6C+
V6	7A
V7	7A+
V8	7B
	7B+
V9	7C
V10	7C+
V11	8A
V12	8A+
V13	8B
V14	8B+
V15	8C
V16	8C+
V17	9A

The evolution of rock climbing grades: from 6a to 9c

Let’s now see how climbing has evolved over time. The following is the result of careful research done by two well-known names in the world of climbers: Maurizio Oviglia and Claude Remy. My thanks go to them and PlanetMountain (which previously published an article dedicated to the evolution of free climbing) for allowing me to publish this interesting table that allows you to observe how the degrees of difficulty in climbing are constantly evolving.

In addition, other details are included: solo (climbing without a rope); on-sight (OS); expo which indicates runout gear; obl. stands for obligatory; Female = F; not confirmed or unrepeated = NC.

rock climbing grades

YEAR	GRADE	CLIMBER	ROUTE
1918	6a expo	Emanuel Strubisch	Wilder Kopf- Westkante / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1930	6a+ expo	Frank Elliot, Harry Dovere Gilbert Ellis	Wall End Slab Direct at Stanage, Peak District, GB
1936	6b/6b+ expo	Willi Hänztschel	Schrammtorwächter nord, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1949	6c expo	Peter Harding	Demon Rib, Black Rocks, Peak District, GB
1952	6c expo	Wulf Scheffler	Schwager-Talseite / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1958	7a solo OS	Don Whillans	Goliath, Burbage, Peak District, GB
1960	6c solo	John Gill	Final Exam, Castle Rock, Colorado, USA
1961	7b+ solo	John Gill	Thimble, Needle, Dakota, USA (12m high)
1970	7a	John Stannard	Foops, Gunks, USA
1972	7b	John Bragg	Kansas City, Gunks, USA
		Alan Manson	Invents the Figure of 4 (Yaniro)on the University of Leeds climbing wall
1973	6c solo OS	Jim Erickson	Cassandre, USA (new route integral solo)
1974	7c	Steve Wunsch	Supercrack, Gunks, USA
1977	8a	Peter Cleveland	Phlogiston, Devil’s Lake, USA
	7b, F	Lynn Hill	Shawangunk Ridge, Gunks, USA
1979	7c, F	Lynn Hill	Ophir Broke, Telluride, Colorado, USA
	8a	Tony Yaniro	Grand Illusion, Sugar Loaf, California, USA
	7b+ expo	Bernd Arnold	Direkte Superlative, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1980	7b+ OS	Patrick Edlinger	La polka des ringards, Buoux, France
	7b+ OS	Patrick Edlinger	Parties carrées, Buoux, France
1981	7c+ expo	Maurizio Zanolla (Manolo)	Il mattino dei maghi, Totoga, Dolomiti, Italy
1983	8a+	Jerry Moffat	The Face, Altmühltal, Germany
1984	8b	Wolfgang Güllich	Kanal im Rücken, Altmühltal, Germany
	8b	Martin Scheel	Vuelo a ciegas direct, Montserrat, Spain
	7c+ OS	Jerry Moffat	in USA e in Europa, citiamo Pol Pot, Verdon, France
	7c+, F	Lynn Hill	Vandals, Gunks, USA
1985	8b+	Wolfgang Güllich	Punks in the gym, Mount Arapiles, Australia
	8a solo	Antoine Le Menestrel	Revelations, Raven Tor, GB
1986	8b+/c	Antoine Le Menestrel	Ravage, Chuenisberg, Jura, Switzerland
	8b+	Antoine Le Menestrel	La rage de vivre, Buoux, France
	8b+	Antoine Le Menestrel	La minimum, Buoux, France
	7c solo	Wolfgang Güllich	Weed Killer, Raven Tor, GB
	8a, F	Luisa Iovane	Come back, Valle San Nicolò, Italy
1987	8c	Wolfgang Güllich	Wallstreet, Krottenseer Turm, Frankenjura, Germany
	8a+ solo	Jean-Christophe Lafaille	Rêve de gosse, Les Arnauds, France
	8a, F	Christine Gambert + Lynn Hill	Rêve de papillon, Buoux, France
	8a OS	Antoine Le Menestrel	Samizdat, Cimaï, France
	7b, F OS	Lynn Hill	plusieurs aux USA
1988	8a+, F	Catherine Destivelle	Choucas, Buoux, France
	8b, F	Isabelle Patissier	Sortilèges, Cimaï, France
	8c	Fred Nicole	Anaïs et le canabis, St-Loup, Switzerland
1990	8c+	Ben Moon	Hubble, Raven Tor, GB
	8c/+	Jerry Moffat	Liquid Ambar, Lower Pen Trwyn, Galles, GB
	8b+, F	Lynn Hill	Masse critique, Cimaï, France
1991	9a	Wolfgang Güllich	Action Directe, Frankenjura, Germany
	8b solo	Alain Robert	Compilation, Omblèze, France
1992	8a, F OS	Lynn Hill	Simon, Frankenjura, Germany
	9a	Alex Huber	Om, Triangel, Endstal, Germany (9a+)
1993	9a	Fred Nicole	Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland
	9a	Fred Rouhling	Hugh, Les Eaux Claires, France
	8b OS	Elie Chevieux	Les liaisons dangereuses, Calanques, France
1994	9a	Alex Huber	Weisse Rose, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
	8a/+, F OS	Lynn Hill	Overdose, Lourmarin, France
1995	9b	Fred Rouhling	Akira, Grotte de Vilhonneur, Les Eaux Claires, France (NC)
	8b+ OS	Elie Chevieux	Massey Fergusson, Calanques, France
1996	9a+	Alex Huber	Open Air, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
	9a+	Neil Carson	The big bang, Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales, GB
	8b+ OS	Elie Chevieux	Maldita Maria, Cuenca, Spain
1997	9a/+	Fred Nicole	Elfe, Grimsel, Switzerland.
1998	8c, F	Josune Bereziartu	Honky Tonky, Onate, Spain.
	9a+	Bernabé Fernandez	Orujo, Malaga, Spain (une prise visée, NC)
1999	8b, F OS	Katie Brown	Omaha Beach, Red River Gorge, USA
2000	8c+, F	Josune Bereziartu	Honky Mix, Onate, Spain
	8a+, F OS	Josune Bereziartu	Bon viatge, Terradets, Spain
	9a+	Eric Talmadge	Im Reich des Shogun, Tüfleten, Switzerland
2001	9a+	Chris Sharma	Realization, Céüse, France
2002	9a, F	Josune Bereziartu	Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland
	9a/+	Fred Nicole	La chimère L2, St-Loup, Switzerland
2003	8b solo	Alex Huber	Opportunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
	8b+ solo	Alex Huber	Kommunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
	9b	Bernabé Fernandez	Chilam Balam, Archidona (80m)
	9a+	Ramon Puigblanque	La Rambla Ext, Siurana, Spain
2004	8b, F OS	Josune Bereziartu	Steroid performance, Hourai, Giappone
	8c OS	Yuji Hirayama	White Zombie, Baltzola Spain
	9a/+	François Nicole	Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland
2005	9a/+, F	Josune Bereziartu	Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland
	9a+	Dave Graham	Coup de grâce, Sonlerto, Switzerland
2006	8b+, F OS	Josune Bereziartu	Hydrofobia, Montsant, Spain
2007	8c+ OS	Patxi Usobiaga	Bizi Euskaraz, Etxauri, Spain
2008	9b	Chris Sharma	Jumbo love, Clark Mountain, USA (75m)
	9b	Chris Sharma	Golpe de estado, Siurana, Spain
	9b	Dani Andrada	Delincuente natural, Rodellar, Spain
2009	9b	Chris Sharma	Neanderthal, Santa Linya, Spain
2010	8c, F OS	Charlotte Durif	Les rois du pétrole, Pic St-Loup, France
2011	9b	Adam Ondra	La Capella, Siurana, Spain
	9b	Adam Ondra	Chaxi Raxi, Oliana, Spain
	9b	Adam Ondra	La planta de shiva, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain
	9b	Chris Sharma	First round First minute, Margalef, Spain
2012	9b+	Adam Ondra	The Change, Flatanger, Norway
2017	9a+, F	Anak Verhoeven	Sweet neuf, Pierrot beach, France
2017	9c	Adam Ondra	Silence, Flatanger, Norway
2018	9a+ flash	Adam Ondra	Super Crackinette, Saint-Léger, France

rock climbing grades