Different rock climbing grades across the five most popular systems
There are a variety of different systems used around the world to define rock climbs grades. Below you will find a table that compares the different climbing grades across the five most popular systems. In addition, the skill level of the climber has also been included. The difficulties are listed in increasing order of difficulty.
Roped climbing
- French
The French system is an internationally recognised system for grading sport climbs and is therefore used on bolted routes within the UK. - UIAA
This system is used in Germany, in other areas of Eastern Europe and in Italy for the classic trad routes. - United States
Yosemite Decimal System(YDS) is a grading system commonly found in the United States, starts with a 5.something.
Grades 1 to 4 refer to walks of increasing difficulty, by the time you reach 5 you are assumed to be scrambling over rocks which equates to about 5.0.
Sub-Grade (Yosemite Decimal System).
The sub-grade ranges from 1 to a theoretically infinite number (today the highest number is 15). The number is increased when a ‘harder’ climb is developed. - Great Britain
The UK system is made of two sub-grades, an adjective grade and a technical grade. The adjective grade describes the overall difficulty of the climb taking into consideration how strenuous the route is, the amount of exposure and the availability of protection.
The adjective grades are as follows: Moderate (M), Very Difficult (VD), Hard Very Difficult HVD), Mild Severe (MS), Severe (S), Hard Severe (HS), Mild Very Severe (MVS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS) and Extremely Severe. The Extremely Severe grade is also broken down into 10 further sub grades from E1 to E11.
The numerical technical grading describes the hardest (crux) move on the climb. For a brief explanation of UK traditional climbing grades follow this link. - Australian
The system used in Australia and New Zealand is perhaps the most logical of all. There are no letters secondary grades, just a single number which gets bigger as the routes get harder.
Rock climbing grades
Rock climbing grades
| France | UIAA | YDS | GB | AUS | Level | |
| 1 | I | 5 | 3a | Novice ↓ | ||
| 2 | II | 5.1/5.2 | 3b | 11 | ||
| 3 | III | 5.3/5.4 | 3c | 12 | ||
| 4a | IV | 5.5 | 4a | VD | 13 | Beginner ↓ |
| 4b | IV+ | 5.6 | 4b | S | 14 | |
| 4c | V | 5.7 | 4c | HS | 15 | |
| 5a | V+ | 5.8 | VS | 16 | ||
| 5b | VI- | 5.9 | 5a | HVS | 17 | Intermediate ↓ |
| 5c | VI | 5.10a | E1 | 18 | ||
| 6a | VI+ | 5.10b | 5b | 19 | ||
| 6a+ | VII- | 5.10c | E2 | 20 | ||
| 6b | VII | 5.10d | 5c | 21 | ||
| 6b+ | VII+ | 5.11a | E3 | 22 | Advanced ↓ | |
| 6c | VIII- | 5.11b | 23 | |||
| 6c+ | VIII | 5.11c | 6a | E4 | 24 | |
| 7a | VIII+ | 5.11d | 25 | |||
| 7a+ | IX- | 5.12a | E5 | 26 | ||
| 7b | IX- IX | 5.12b | 6b | Expert ↓ | ||
| 7b+ | IX | 5.12c | E6 | 27 | ||
| 7c | IX IX+ | 5.12d | 6c | 28 | ||
| 7c+ | IX+ | 5.13a | E7 | 29 | ||
| 8a | IX+ X- | 5.13b | Super Expert ↓ | |||
| 8a+ | X- | 5.13c | 7a | 30 | ||
| 8b | X | 5.13d | E8 | 31 | Elite ↓ | |
| 8b+ | X+ | 5.14a | 32 | |||
| 8c | X+ XI- | 5.14b | 7b | 33 | ||
| 8c+ | XI- | 5.14c | E9 | 34 | ||
| 9a | XI | 5.14d | 7c | 35 | Super Elite ↓ | |
| 9a+ | XI+ | 5.15a | 36 | |||
| 9b | XII- | 5.15b | 37 | |||
| 9b+ | XII | 5.15c | 38 | |||
| 9c | XII+ | 5.15d | 39 | Aliens | ||
Download climbing grades table (PDF) for your mobile!
Rock climbing grades
Climbers mainly use two rating systems for rope climbing, according to geographical location: FRENCH scale and YDS. Speaking about rock climbing grades, there are not only the systems listed above but also others difficulty rating systems. For example: South Africa, Brazil, Finnish, Swedish. Click on this link to see other systems for measuring difficulties in climbing.
Rock climbing grades, bear in mind that:
the system for assessing how difficult the climb is is subjective. As much as you can try, there is no perfect way of ranking climbs. The various systems have improved over the years, however the fact remains that climbing is a highly individualistic and subjective sport. Our differences make us stronger in some areas, weaker in others. Hence, it is impossible to put together a perfect system for evaluating climbs. But this is what makes our sport special!
Bouldering
Bouldering is a simplified and often “social” version of rope climbing. In fact, in this case no rope and harness are used, because it climbs extremely difficult short routes (also known as problems). The heights are limited, so you climb not too far from the ground. Bouldering is a great way to increase your confidence and technique, and it’s a lot of fun!
Bouldering consists in climbing (up to a maximum height of about 7-8 meters) to solve particular sequences of movements linked and dynamic, usually few (8-10), but extremely difficult.
Climbing more than 7-8 metres are considered dangerous solo climb.
In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing.
Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco “V” grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, and more.
The V scale was developed in the USA and is a system that currently starts with VB for the simplest bouldering problems and goes all the way up to V17 for super experienced professionals.
The Fontainebleau Scale was born in France and is the most used boulder rating scale in Europe. The scale starts at 1 (although you will rarely see a boulder route easier than 3) and goes up to 9. Like the French scale, it also uses the letters “a”, “b” and “c” along with symbols + and – to further subdivide the grades.
You can read a very detailed article about bouldering grades here: www.99boulders.com.
Drawing by Claudio Getto “Caio Comix”
| Hueco (USA) | Fontainebleau |
|---|---|
| VB | 3 |
| V0- | 4- |
| V0 | 4 |
| V0+ | 4+ |
| V1 | 5 |
| V2 | 5+ |
| V3 | 6A |
| 6A+ | |
| V4 | 6B |
| 6B+ | |
| V5 | 6C |
| 6C+ | |
| V6 | 7A |
| V7 | 7A+ |
| V8 | 7B |
| 7B+ | |
| V9 | 7C |
| V10 | 7C+ |
| V11 | 8A |
| V12 | 8A+ |
| V13 | 8B |
| V14 | 8B+ |
| V15 | 8C |
| V16 | 8C+ |
| V17 | 9A |
The evolution of rock climbing grades: from 6a to 9c
Let’s now see how climbing has evolved over time. The following is the result of careful research done by two well-known names in the world of climbers: Maurizio Oviglia and Claude Remy. My thanks go to them and PlanetMountain (which previously published an article dedicated to the evolution of free climbing) for allowing me to publish this interesting table that allows you to observe how the degrees of difficulty in climbing are constantly evolving.
In addition, other details are included: solo (climbing without a rope); on-sight (OS); expo which indicates runout gear; obl. stands for obligatory; Female = F; not confirmed or unrepeated = NC.
rock climbing grades
| YEAR | GRADE | CLIMBER | ROUTE |
1918 | 6a expo | Emanuel Strubisch | Wilder Kopf- Westkante / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany |
1930 | 6a+ expo | Frank Elliot, Harry Dovere Gilbert Ellis | Wall End Slab Direct at Stanage, Peak District, GB |
1936 | 6b/6b+ expo | Willi Hänztschel | Schrammtorwächter nord, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany |
1949 | 6c expo | Peter Harding | Demon Rib, Black Rocks, Peak District, GB |
1952 | 6c expo | Wulf Scheffler | Schwager-Talseite / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany |
1958 | 7a solo OS | Don Whillans | Goliath, Burbage, Peak District, GB |
1960 | 6c solo | John Gill | Final Exam, Castle Rock, Colorado, USA |
1961 | 7b+ solo | John Gill | Thimble, Needle, Dakota, USA (12m high) |
1970 | 7a | John Stannard | Foops, Gunks, USA |
1972 | 7b | John Bragg | Kansas City, Gunks, USA |
Alan Manson | Invents the Figure of 4 (Yaniro)on the University of Leeds climbing wall | ||
1973 | 6c solo OS | Jim Erickson | Cassandre, USA (new route integral solo) |
1974 | 7c | Steve Wunsch | Supercrack, Gunks, USA |
1977 | 8a | Peter Cleveland | Phlogiston, Devil’s Lake, USA |
7b, F | Lynn Hill | Shawangunk Ridge, Gunks, USA | |
1979 | 7c, F | Lynn Hill | Ophir Broke, Telluride, Colorado, USA |
8a | Tony Yaniro | Grand Illusion, Sugar Loaf, California, USA | |
7b+ expo | Bernd Arnold | Direkte Superlative, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany | |
1980 | 7b+ OS | Patrick Edlinger | La polka des ringards, Buoux, France |
7b+ OS | Patrick Edlinger | Parties carrées, Buoux, France | |
1981 | 7c+ expo | Maurizio Zanolla (Manolo) | Il mattino dei maghi, Totoga, Dolomiti, Italy |
1983 | 8a+ | Jerry Moffat | The Face, Altmühltal, Germany |
1984 | 8b | Wolfgang Güllich | Kanal im Rücken, Altmühltal, Germany |
8b | Martin Scheel | Vuelo a ciegas direct, Montserrat, Spain | |
7c+ OS | Jerry Moffat | in USA e in Europa, citiamo Pol Pot, Verdon, France | |
7c+, F | Lynn Hill | Vandals, Gunks, USA | |
1985 | 8b+ | Wolfgang Güllich | Punks in the gym, Mount Arapiles, Australia |
8a solo | Antoine Le Menestrel | Revelations, Raven Tor, GB | |
1986 | 8b+/c | Antoine Le Menestrel | Ravage, Chuenisberg, Jura, Switzerland |
8b+ | Antoine Le Menestrel | La rage de vivre, Buoux, France | |
8b+ | Antoine Le Menestrel | La minimum, Buoux, France | |
7c solo | Wolfgang Güllich | Weed Killer, Raven Tor, GB | |
8a, F | Luisa Iovane | Come back, Valle San Nicolò, Italy | |
1987 | 8c | Wolfgang Güllich | Wallstreet, Krottenseer Turm, Frankenjura, Germany |
8a+ solo | Jean-Christophe Lafaille | Rêve de gosse, Les Arnauds, France | |
8a, F | Christine Gambert + Lynn Hill | Rêve de papillon, Buoux, France | |
8a OS | Antoine Le Menestrel | Samizdat, Cimaï, France | |
7b, F OS | Lynn Hill | plusieurs aux USA | |
1988 | 8a+, F | Catherine Destivelle | Choucas, Buoux, France |
8b, F | Isabelle Patissier | Sortilèges, Cimaï, France | |
8c | Fred Nicole | Anaïs et le canabis, St-Loup, Switzerland | |
1990 | 8c+ | Ben Moon | Hubble, Raven Tor, GB |
8c/+ | Jerry Moffat | Liquid Ambar, Lower Pen Trwyn, Galles, GB | |
8b+, F | Lynn Hill | Masse critique, Cimaï, France | |
1991 | 9a | Wolfgang Güllich | Action Directe, Frankenjura, Germany |
8b solo | Alain Robert | Compilation, Omblèze, France | |
1992 | 8a, F OS | Lynn Hill | Simon, Frankenjura, Germany |
9a | Alex Huber | Om, Triangel, Endstal, Germany (9a+) | |
1993 | 9a | Fred Nicole | Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland |
9a | Fred Rouhling | Hugh, Les Eaux Claires, France | |
8b OS | Elie Chevieux | Les liaisons dangereuses, Calanques, France | |
1994 | 9a | Alex Huber | Weisse Rose, Schleierwasserfall, Austria |
8a/+, F OS | Lynn Hill | Overdose, Lourmarin, France | |
1995 | 9b | Fred Rouhling | Akira, Grotte de Vilhonneur, Les Eaux Claires, France (NC) |
8b+ OS | Elie Chevieux | Massey Fergusson, Calanques, France | |
1996 | 9a+ | Alex Huber | Open Air, Schleierwasserfall, Austria |
9a+ | Neil Carson | The big bang, Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales, GB | |
8b+ OS | Elie Chevieux | Maldita Maria, Cuenca, Spain | |
1997 | 9a/+ | Fred Nicole | Elfe, Grimsel, Switzerland. |
1998 | 8c, F | Josune Bereziartu | Honky Tonky, Onate, Spain. |
9a+ | Bernabé Fernandez | Orujo, Malaga, Spain (une prise visée, NC) | |
1999 | 8b, F OS | Katie Brown | Omaha Beach, Red River Gorge, USA |
2000 | 8c+, F | Josune Bereziartu | Honky Mix, Onate, Spain |
8a+, F OS | Josune Bereziartu | Bon viatge, Terradets, Spain | |
9a+ | Eric Talmadge | Im Reich des Shogun, Tüfleten, Switzerland | |
2001 | 9a+ | Chris Sharma | Realization, Céüse, France |
2002 | 9a, F | Josune Bereziartu | Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland |
9a/+ | Fred Nicole | La chimère L2, St-Loup, Switzerland | |
2003 | 8b solo | Alex Huber | Opportunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria |
8b+ solo | Alex Huber | Kommunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria | |
9b | Bernabé Fernandez | Chilam Balam, Archidona (80m) | |
9a+ | Ramon Puigblanque | La Rambla Ext, Siurana, Spain | |
2004 | 8b, F OS | Josune Bereziartu | Steroid performance, Hourai, Giappone |
8c OS | Yuji Hirayama | White Zombie, Baltzola Spain | |
9a/+ | François Nicole | Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland | |
2005 | 9a/+, F | Josune Bereziartu | Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland |
9a+ | Dave Graham | Coup de grâce, Sonlerto, Switzerland | |
2006 | 8b+, F OS | Josune Bereziartu | Hydrofobia, Montsant, Spain |
2007 | 8c+ OS | Patxi Usobiaga | Bizi Euskaraz, Etxauri, Spain |
2008 | 9b | Chris Sharma | Jumbo love, Clark Mountain, USA (75m) |
9b | Chris Sharma | Golpe de estado, Siurana, Spain | |
9b | Dani Andrada | Delincuente natural, Rodellar, Spain | |
2009 | 9b | Chris Sharma | Neanderthal, Santa Linya, Spain |
2010 | 8c, F OS | Charlotte Durif | Les rois du pétrole, Pic St-Loup, France |
2011 | 9b | Adam Ondra | La Capella, Siurana, Spain |
9b | Adam Ondra | Chaxi Raxi, Oliana, Spain | |
9b | Adam Ondra | La planta de shiva, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain | |
9b | Chris Sharma | First round First minute, Margalef, Spain | |
2012 | 9b+ | Adam Ondra | The Change, Flatanger, Norway |
2017 | 9a+, F | Anak Verhoeven | Sweet neuf, Pierrot beach, France |
2017 | 9c | Adam Ondra | Silence, Flatanger, Norway |
2018 | 9a+ flash | Adam Ondra | Super Crackinette, Saint-Léger, France |
rock climbing grades