At the start of the new millennium the Cortina Mountain Guides decided to bolt a crag with easy single pitches for beginners. They chose Monte Lagazuoi, in particular a section on the south face located to the left (west) of the tunnel entrance for the Galleria del Lagazuoi.
This is how, together with my friend and colleague Paolo Tassi, the crag came to life, and in a couple of days we established almost 30 easy and mid-grade routes.
GETTING THERE: the crag is located on the South Face of Piccolo Lagazuoi in the Fanis mountain range, known above all for the incredible First World War trench warfare fought out here between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops and, in more recent times, the open-air museum dedicated to the Great War. To reach the crag park the car at Passo Falzarego and walk along path no. 402 following signs for the Galleria del Lagazuoi, then turn off at the fork, signposted for the crag.
APPROACH TIME: 25 minutes. sport climbing lagazuoi
THE CLIMBING: vertical face climbing with plenty of holds.
BEST TIME OF YEAR: from May to October. Given the altitude of 2300m, summer is certainly the best time of year, even if climbing is possible in on clear winter days since the crag faces south.
GEAR: a helmet is highly recommended. The ledge system located above the crag is used by the many hikers who explore the Galleria del Lagazuoi and the possibility of falling rocks must be born in mind.
HEIGHT: from 15 meters to 30 meters
GRADES: 4a – 7b (mostly 5b)
SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS: yes
NUMBER OF ROUTES: 27
The crag is mentioned in the guidebook “Best of Cortina – Le più belle arrampicate a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni”, by Stefan Wagenhals – Lobo Edition 2005