Sport climbing – Selection of Dolomites bolted routes
Tofana di Rozes On the walls of Tofana di Rozes there are more than ten bolted routes. Most of the climbs have been opened by Massimo Da Pozzo, a strong local climber. All these routes are beautiful but require climbing experience and full mastery of the degree. Forewarned is forearmed!
“ASPETTANDO LA VETTA” by Massimo Da Pozzo and Gianmario Meneghin It is one of the easiest bolted routes of the south face of Tofana di Rozes. Despite being bolt protected run-outs are not uncommon… Access: 40 minutes Lenght: 450m Face: south-east Difficulty: 6b+
“QUEL CALCARE NELL’ANIMA” by Marco Sterni, Mauro Kraus, Marco Giuffrida and Serena Bonin Great climb, superb rock. The difficulties are continuous and the route is strenuous due to its length. Medium and small camming devices recommend. Access: 1h 30′ Lenght: 380m Face: west Difficulty: 6b+,6c
Castelletto Castelletto is sadly famous for the bloody war episodes that occurred in the years of the Great War (Grande Guerra), and is characterized by a long tunnel built by Italian soldiers in an attempt to conquer its strategic summit, manned by the Austrians. Luckily Castelletto is now the theatre of beautiful and challenging free climbing in a superb landscape.
“LA GRANDE GUERRA” by Marco Sterni, M.Florit and M.Sacchi Another great sport route. It is completely equipped with 10 mm bolts. Access: 1h 15′ Lenght: 210m Face: north-west Difficulty: 7a (6b obbligatory difficulty)
Croda da Lago – Passo Giau
Torrione Marcella Torrione Marcella is a pretty tower typically dolomitic, emerging in the Northern sector of the very long West face of Lastoni di Formin, clearly visible from the road that connects Pocol to Passo Giau. Given the route’s difficulty, the bolts and beauty, Nikibi is destined to become a modern classic up this mountain. The route is full-equipped with bolts. The starting point of the route is located in the lowest point of the wall.
“NIKIBI” by M. Dibona and G. Alexander Access: 50 minutes Lenght: 300m Face: north-west Difficolty: 6b
Spiz de Mondeval (Lastoi de Formin) The area is one of the most beautiful in Cortina, and the rock is great. Approaching some of the climbs requires a walk of over an hour, but it is certainly worth it: the environment is wonderful and the view ranges from the green pastures of Mondeval, often animated by flocks of sheep, to the majestic north face of the Monte Pelmo. At the moment there are some bolted routes, and our choice falls on a really well protected route, one of the most beautiful climbs in the area!
“RE ARTÙ” by Mario Dibona Not to be missed! Access: 1h 15′ Lenght: 300m Face: south Difficulty: 5, 6+, AO (6b)
Lastoi de Formin Super Tegolina is a nice, sustained climb up the large central pillar on the west face, bolted on lead. Protection is generally very good, although there is an occasional runout in easier terrain (6a and below). Aset of trad gear (nuts and small griends) may be found useful. The third pitch is slightly run-out.
“SUPER TEGOLINA” di F. Piardi and F. Tremolada Access: 1 hour Lenght: 350m Face: west Difficulty: 6b+
La Gusella del Nuvolau On this wall beautiful modern routes with bolts have been opened, some very demanding. Here I report a challenging way, “plaisir” if you master the degree. Climbing is sustained and very technical, with difficult mandatory sections. This route was bolted on abseil; all belays are equipped with abseil chains for the descent. The length of 8a can be exceeded in A0 / A1.
“C’EST PLUS FACILE” by M. Da Pozzo and B. Sertorelli Access: 30 minutes Lenght: 200m Face: east Difficolty: 7b (+ one pitch 8a)
Piccolo Lagazuoi Nice route on excellent rock. Full equipped with bolts 10mm. Climbing not difficult, but not trivial. On the guides the technical difficulty is slightly underestimated. The highlight is the steep finale on the pointed pillar in the last pitch – this is almost impossible to beat. The excellent quality of the rock, the sun exposure and the short approach have made this climb very popular.
“ORIZZONTI DI GLORIA” by Roly Galvagni, D.Filippi and G.Mittemberger Access: 40 minutes Lenght: 250m Face: south Difficulty: 5+, 6a
Torre Grande di Falzarego Torre Grande di Falzarego is a tower of high quality dolomia belonging to Fanis group and situated in the neighbourhood of Passo Falzarego. The Wall is nice climb, the approach is easy and short, the route is completely equipped with bolts. Climbing is very technical, good training is required.
“THE WALL” by Mario Dibona (solo) Access: 30 minutes Lenght: 250m Face: south-east Difficulty: from 6a to 6c+
Cadini di Misurina
Pilastro di Misurina
The Pilastro di Misurina is located to the right of Punta Col de Varda, just before Forcella Misurina. Wolkenreise a short route, of only five pitches, but in my opinion it deserves a climb. The first three lengths climb up very solid rock slabs, while in the last two pitches the rock becomes more vertical and overhanging. The view on Lago di Misurina is amazing.
“WOLKENREISE” by Peter Manhartsberger and Stefan Kopeinig Access: 50 minutes from rifugio Col de Varda Lenght: 160m Esposizione: ovest Difficulty: 6b+
Col di Mezzo – Parete del pianoro The Col di Mezzo is a peak-not peack which is located behind the famous triad, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. If on the south side it really looks like a hill, it offers an imposing wall of solid rock on the north-west side. Hat Spass Gemacht is one of the best bolted routes in this area. Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through some open books, demanding and varied.
“HAT SPASS GEMACHT” by Hannes Pfeifhofer (solo) Access: 1h 30′ Lenght:: 450m Face: north-west Difficulty: 6b+
Bolted routes in Sella
The quality of the rock is very good in these three bolted routes. The first, Delenda Carthago, is a fun and safe route, short approach and fast return, and can be an excellent choice on a day of unsafe weather. The other two bolted routes are longer and more demanding, especially Oro e Carbone requires a good shape if you want to have fun on 10 overhanging lengths of rope.
Prima Torre del Sella “DELENDA CARTHAGO” by R. Galvagni and M. Maceri Beautiful and logical climbing up the south face of Prima Torre del Sella. Access: Passo Sella. Lenght: 180m Face: south Difficulty: 6b
Torre Brunico “OTTOVOLANTE” by Francesco Piardi, F. Tremolada, C. Zampieri Great climb, on excellent rock, not to be missed! Access: leave the car at the Via ferrata Tridentina parking lot a few hairpin bends below Passo Gardena in the direction of Corvara. Lenght: 400m Face: north Difficulty: 7a
Mur del Pissadu’ “ORO E CARBONE” by F. Piardi and F. Tremolada This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. The climbing is both technical and strenuous. Access: leave the car at the Via ferrata Tridentina parking lot a few hairpin bends below Passo Gardena in the direction of Corvara. Lenght: 400m Face: nord Difficulty: 7a
Classic Dolomites routes
Do you like trad and classic routes? You will also find here a fantastic place to play!
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