An ancient history, the Giau Wall
The history of the Giau Wall is ancient. It is about a controversy over pastures and land between the inhabitants of two neighboring municipalities: San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. The first written document that testifies to the contrasts between the two towns dates back to 1331.
It is paramount to understand the significance of the disputed area to better understand the reason for this fight: the Giau Pass is a wonderful area, sheltered from the cold winds coming from the north, with an abundance of streams and pastures.
Today, this magnificent area in the heart of the Dolomites has become a popular tourist destination, and it is easy to reach thanks to a properly paved road. However, in the past centuries, it was a true paradise for shepherds and their animals.
Hence, it was disputed and desired by both the inhabitants of Ampezzo and San Vito.
According to ancient memory, the first ones to graze their cattle in the area were the latter, who had arrived there through saddle Forcella Ambrizola and saddle Forcella Giau, from Malga Prendera and Malga Mondeval. In a document dating back to 1331, a notary established that the area of the Giau Pass belonged to San Vito di Cadore, fixing some border points.
However, controversies between the two populations continued in the following centuries, and after 1511, when Cortina became part of Austria, the conflict took on an international dimension.
1752 was a crucial year as it was established that the inhabitants of San Vito di Cadore could continue to enjoy their ancient rights, but under one condition: they had to build a wall, at their expense, to prevent their livestock from entering the territory of Cortina d’Ampezzo.
Today, some people think that the difficult conditions forced on the population of San Vito were a deliberate attempt to discourage them from building the wall, thereby giving up on their ancient rights.
Indeed, the wall, which had to be built within 90 days, had to be 2 kilometers long, 6 feet high, with a base width of 5 feet and a top width of 2 feet. Nonetheless, the whole population of San Vito di Cadore put their best effort into the enterprise, and they managed to complete the Giau Wall in time, as the territory was considered indispensable for future generations.
When thinking about the great effort made in building the Giau Wall, the idea of missing a visit to the historic remains is just too big of a loss. In the summer and autumn seasons, when the snow has not yet covered the stunning mountains in the area, it is fascinating to look for the stones and tombstones that mark the borderline between Cortina and San Vito. Crosses mark the border, the lions of Saint Mark, a symbol of Italy and the Republic of Venice, and the Habsburg shields, a symbol of the Habsburg Empire.
The remains are still present in three areas: at the base of the tower Torre Luisa, a small dolomitic spire on the eastern side of the Gusela, at the Becco della Muraglia, near the paved road, and on the northern slopes of the Lastoni di Formin, above the lakes of Ciou de ra Maza.
Unfortunately, unknown vandals have removed the tombstones in some areas, but in other places, the Austrian marble shield and the lion of San Marco engraved on Castellavazzo stone, still fixed with the original bars, are still there, bringing back the memory of a troubled history and a much-debated border.
Wandering these wonderful pastures and observing the remains left by our predecessors is a way of recovering a part of their lives, economies, and societies and remembering how San Vito di Cadore’s hard work and perseverance were able to draw the attention of even an empress and a doge.
If you want to visit the remains of the Giau Wall, the boundary stones, and the marbles of Castellavazzo with the lions of San Marco and Habsburg shields, contact me! I will happily accompany you in retracing a piece of our history. This excursion can be done partially with snowshoes in the winter season.
Further information here: Giau Wall and Becco Muraglia with snowshoes.
