An anniversary to remember

The route Dimai/Eötvös on the south face of Tofana di Rozes

The summer of 2021 will celebrate two important anniversaries in the mountain climbing arena: the first climbs of the South Face of Punta Fiames and of the South Face of Tofana di Rozes. Both climbs were achieved by one of the most famous and skilled roped parties of the time, consisting of Antonio Dimai “Deo” and Agostino Verzi, two mountain guides from Cortina.

Allow me to spend a few words on the Dimai/Eötvös route on the south face of Tofana di Rozes.

On August 8th, 1901, Dimai and Verzi, with another celebrated guide, Giovanni Siorpaes, nicknamed Giàn de Santo, a highly active guide in those times, succeeded in an outstanding climbing feat. This was the first route opened on the massive South face of the Tofana di Rozes, which is currently still viewed as a masterpiece.

Although it does not pose great technical difficulties, we need to consider the context of the times when these events occurred.

Antonio Dimai “Deo” on Tofana

Furthermore, the itinerary runs along a winding route, not easy to read, enfolding at the heart of an enormous face. The three guides were not alone. The adventure also included two exceptional clients, Baronesses Rolanda and llona Eötvös from Hungary.

The climb unfolds for approximately one thousand meters in majestic surroundings. For this reason, it suits climbers used to quick moves, who must also be well fit. This summer, 120 years after the first climb, the Mountain Guides and the Scoiattoli from Cortina are going to pay tribute to the valiant climbers who dared to venture in the heart of the Tofana di Rozes, unaware of the difficulties they were about to encounter.

Climbers on the Dimai - Eotvos - Tofana di Rozes
Nowadays: Enrico and Alberto on the Dimai/Eötvös

.

Related post:
Obsessed by a mountain

.

above footer 01