At the top of Val Popena: a breathtaking panorama
Destroyed by a fire and never rebuilt, the former Rifugio Popena is now reduced to a few ruins. Yet it still stands on a panoramic viewpoint above Val Popena, a place rich in history and unspoiled nature. This hidden corner of the Dolomites offers a great alternative to the classic, often crowded routes—easy to reach and incredibly scenic.
On the eastern side of the Cristallo group, along the south-eastern slope of Val Popena Alta, lies a wide and gentle saddle at 2,214 meters, beneath the ridge that descends from Corno d’Angolo. This pass connects the valley with Passo Tre Croci and Misurina. The saddle is surrounded by majestic peaks, among which the Piz Popena stands out—one of the grandest and least visited “three-thousanders” of the Dolomites. It was first climbed in June 1870 by guides Santo Siorpaes and Christian Lauener with Edward R. Whitwell.
At its feet rises the graceful Corno d’Angolo, with its characteristic yellowish edge facing south. Next come Croda di Pousa Marza, the South-West and North-East Towers of Popena, and then Punta Michele, where in 1944 the legendary climber Angelo Dibona opened his last new route together with Casara, Cavallini, Menardi, and Trenker. We also find the Cristallino di Misurina, first visited in 1864 by Paul Grohmann, who was ignored during the golden age of alpinism but later transformed into a bloody battlefield during the First World War.
Other features include the Dibona Spire, the Guglia di Val Popena Alta, the 3rd Peak of Val Popena Alta, and finally the South-West and North-East walls of Misurina, home to short but technical climbing routes established by Del Torso, Quinz, and Molin.
Today, our goal is to reach this panoramic saddle, located close to the border between Auronzo and Cortina and at the eastern edge of the Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti Ampezzane. Here stand the ruins of a small hut, built in 1938 and named Rifugio Popena. It was meant to provide a base for climbers and hikers, and to encourage winter tourism as well.
Unfortunately, the hut’s story was short: a fire during World War II destroyed it, and it has never been rebuilt. The ruins are not even suitable as an emergency shelter, and they certainly do not honor this scenic Dolomite viewpoint, which is both historically significant and naturally precious.
The saddle itself is also a crossroads of great importance for climbers and hikers. Perhaps one day a structure could stand here again, though the lack of water is a serious challenge.
Even if Lake Misurina lies just over an hour away, the area around the former hut has never suffered from mass tourism. Provided that the pass and its surrounding peaks remain free from artificial changes, Val Popena (sometimes referred to as Popena Valley) will keep its charm as the best gateway into the Dolomites.
How to reach Val Popena
To visit the area, you can start from the Rudavoi bridge or from the Ruvieta bridge, both along the Dolomite road 48bis between Passo Tre Croci and Misurina. Another option is a beautiful circular hike starting at the Malga Misurina farmhouse.
However, the classic and most recommended access to Val Popena begins at the hairpin bend at 1,659 meters, on the road between Carbonin and Misurina that climbs through the lower Val Popena. From the inside of the bend, follow the trail marked with the CAI sign no. 222. The path climbs a meadow and then follows the usually calm waters of the Rio Popena, gradually leading deeper into the valley. On the right looms the impressive Cristallino di Misurina, while on the left rises Costa Popena, covered in dense forest.
Soon, the trail becomes harder to follow, often interrupted by the overflowing stream, but then it reappears clearly, marked with red signs and cairns.
As you climb, the environment grows increasingly wild and solitary, even though you are still not far from the valley floor. After crossing a rocky section where the trail vanishes, you reach an area of dwarf mountain pines near a gorge. From here, the path climbs the right side of the valley with several switchbacks, offering views of the Pale di Misurina, which displays two impressive rock walls on this side.
After crossing a gully and the entrance to Val delle Baracche, which rises rightward towards Cristallino, you finally reach the base of the terminal cirque of the valley.
At the end stands Piz Popena, while the Popena Towers close off the head of the valley.
Ignoring a small path that leads across the stream to Forcella delle Pale di Misurina (and down to Lake Misurina), stay on the main trail. Through meadows and dwarf pines, it crosses a scenic hollow. Climbing the last steep slope to the left, you finally reach the saddle and the ruins of Rifugio Popena.
The ascent takes just under two hours. It is not too demanding and is also popular in winter, with skis or snowshoes. From here, the panorama is simply extraordinary. You can recognize both nearby and distant peaks, some of the most famous in the Eastern Dolomites. And if you still have energy, you can explore beyond the saddle by climbing Corno d’Angolo—a short but rewarding ascent in an untouched environment.
A short climb to Corno d’Angolo
This climb is suitable for hikers who are comfortable on unmarked and slightly unstable terrain. If exposure bothers you, this route may not be for you. From the saddle, head into the silent cirque to the right of the upper Val Popena. The path climbs gently, passing to the right of the Popena Towers. Choose the easiest route among grass, scree, and boulders until you reach a small notch in the crest. On the opposite side, the ridge drops steeply toward Rudavoi, between Corno d’Angolo on the left and Croda di Pousa Marza on the right.
From the grassy notch, follow cairns and traces on scree to the left. After a short climb of about 50 meters, including a few easy rock steps (either along the ridge or just below it), you reach the summit cairn of Corno d’Angolo, marked by a stick.
When descending, carefully follow the same route to avoid dislodging stones on those below you. In a few minutes, you will return to the rocky cirque, satisfied with having conquered a fine Dolomite summit.
Meanwhile, those who stayed at the saddle can take a short half-hour detour to the base of the North-East Tower of Popena. Here, you can see stone slabs engraved with the coats of arms of Tyrol and the Venetian Republic, placed in 1754 by officials marking the border between the two empires.
The way back
Although there are alternative routes, the best option for the return is to follow the same trail back down. In about an hour and a half, you will reach the road and your car again.
Map recommendation: Tabacco topographic map, scale 1:25,000, no. 03 – Cortina d’Ampezzo and Dolomiti Ampezzane. You can buy it here.
