The Fanes waterfalls, canyons and streams
The Fanes Waterfalls hike follows the spectacular course of the Rio Fanes, through deep canyons and narrow gorges, to the confluence of the Fanes, Travenanzes and Ra Vales valleys, north of Cortina d’Ampezzo.
The route features an extraordinary sequence of pools, cascades and waterfalls; the Lower Fanes Waterfalls are among the highest and most water-rich in the Dolomites.
The route runs through the heart of the Dolomites of Ampezzo Natural Park and includes sections of varying difficulty and commitment. It can be tackled in stages or completed as a continuous loop and, along some sections, is also suitable for families with children.
The itinerary offers several panoramic viewpoints and includes short equipped sections with fixed steel cables at the most exposed and delicate passages.
The route can be followed in both directions; however, walking it anticlockwise is recommended, and this is the direction described below.
Access
There are three possible access points to the route, which starts and ends near the second Pian de Loa bridge on the Rio Fanes.
Pian de Loa, in the local Ampezzo dialect, means “Wolf’s Clearing”.
1. Access from Ponte Felizon
This is the easiest access option, although not the shortest, and is well suited for those who prefer a straightforward and gentle approach.
It starts at the park entrance near Ponte Felizon (Felizon bridge), north of Fiames, and follows an almost two-kilometre-long paved road, with gentle gradients and a regular profile, leading to the Pian de Loa area.
Access from the Sant’Ubero (“Torniché”) hairpin bend
The other two access options start from the hairpin bend at km 11.2 of the Alemagna Road, in the locality of Sant’Ubero, known as “Torniché”, where the dirt road to Malga Ra Stua begins.
Both options are slightly shorter than the access from Ponte Felizon
2. Direct access to Pian de Loa
From the parking area next to the hairpin bend, a path descends directly westwards through the forest, reaching Pian de Loa at the level of the first bridge over the Boite stream.
Pian de Loa, meaning “Wolf’s Clearing” (see also the wolf in the Ampezzo Dolomites) in the local Ampezzo dialect, is a forest clearing located at the foot of Monte Tabùrlo. In the early 17th century it was one of the most frequently used “albèrghe”, traditional resting areas for grazing livestock.
3. Access from Costa dei Siè
This access starts from the parking area just above the hairpin bend and descends towards the north-west.
From the parking area, instead of following the dirt road leading to Ra Stua, a second track branches off to the left, closed by a barrier; this is the correct route to follow.
After crossing the Boite stream at the outlet of the Costa dei Siè gorge, the route continues across the entire Pian de Loa and reaches the start of the circular itinerary.
Route Overview
The route is morphologically divided into three main sections:
- the ascent along the Rio Fanes,
- the crossing of the lower Val Travenanzes,
- the ascent of the Ru de Ra Vales.
From each of these sections it is possible to return to Ponte Outo and to Pian de Loa.
Route Description
Here I describe the itinerary which, in my opinion, is the most rewarding from a naturalistic point of view. In addition to its environmental interest, this route includes two passages behind the waterfalls, among the most impressive features of the entire itinerary.
However, it should however be noted that several alternative variants are possible, with different lengths and levels of commitment.
For example, it is possible to approach the first waterfall directly from Pian de Loa by following the dirt road (trail no. 10). Once Ponte Outo is reached, an equipped section allows descent into the gorge, a crossing of the Rio Fanes via a footbridge, ascent through the gorge, a passage behind the waterfall, and finally the completion of the equipped section by reaching a resting area with benches. From here it is possible to return to Pian de Loa.
From an alpinistic point of view, the equipped sections described correspond to the Giovanni Barbara Via Ferrata and the Lucio Delaiti Via Ferrata, both included in the first loop, and to the Cengia di Mattia Via Ferrata, which is part of the second loop.
First Loop
To begin the itinerary, Pian de Loa must first be reached by following one of the access routes described above.
From the clearing, the path enters the forest, ignoring the signposted turn-off to Ponte Alto on the left, and continues while remaining on the left orographic side of the Rio Fanes.
Skirting the lower edge of the clearing and passing near two majestic old fir trees (“ra ciòces”), the trail climbs towards the slopes of Monte Tabùrlo, reaching the edge of the Rio Fanes gorge and, shortly afterwards, an exposed viewpoint overlooking the Lower Fanes Waterfalls.
The rocky cavities on the shadier walls are the habitat of the Eurasian eagle-owl (Bubo bubo), one of the most majestic and endangered birds of prey.
On the same rock walls, preferably underneath the sheer slopes but on the opposite side, on the sunnier and warmer slopes, you may catch sight of a small red and dark grey bird with a narrow, elongated beak, the Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria).
Note
In the Ampezzo dialect, “ciòcia” means “brooding hen”. Figuratively, the term also refers to a broad-canopied tree under which livestock once took shelter; in the past, cutting such trees was forbidden.
At this point, the descent into the gorge begins, marking the most demanding section of the route. Those who do not feel confident tackling this section can avoid it by ascending from Pian de Loa to Ponte Outo on the opposite side, following the dirt road of the Val di Fanes.
After descending a narrow gully with tight switchbacks, the route follows the base of the main waterfall drop and then climbs to the right along a lateral gully, enclosed between red, overhanging rock walls.
This delicate passage is equipped with a fixed steel cable.
The rocky niches on the shadier walls provide habitat for one of the most majestic and threatened birds of prey in the Alps: the Eurasian Eagle-Owl (Bubo bubo).
On the same walls, preferably beneath overhangs but on the opposite exposure—namely on the warmer, sunnier slopes—it is also common to spot a small red-and-dark-grey bird with a slender, elongated beak: the Wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria).
The trail then turns left to cross a narrow notch and passes spectacularly behind the upper waterfall.
After this exciting traverse, the route—equipped with fixed cables—continues uphill to reach the upper rim of the gorge, where a resting area with benches and the dirt road of the Val di Fanes are located, from which it is possible to return to Pian de Loa.
Sbarco de Fanes – end of the first loop
The route now follows the Fanes shortcut (trail no. 10). After a short but steep ascent, it descends to the right to cross the Rio Fanes on a first footbridge.
Shortly afterwards, a metal ladder leads onto the path, which climbs the left orographic side of the stream with tight switchbacks. After crossing a small scree slope, the torrent is crossed again on a second bridge, at the base of a ramp where the Rio Fanes forms a long and spectacular cascade (from here it is also possible to return via trail no. 10).
The route then continues along the riverbank, alternating sections of dense forest with more open areas covered in bilberry shrubs.
In a short time, the base of the last and impressive drop is reached: the Sbarco de Fanes, from where the view of the waterfalls is particularly striking, especially in spring, when snowmelt greatly increases the flow of the Rio Fanes.
A short equipped section, which can be avoided by a path on the left, allows traversal of a narrow ledge (Cengia de Matia) behind the waterfall, followed by a short ascent that leads to the end of the first section of the itinerary.
Here the ascent comes to an end, and the return to Pian de Loa begins, either by passing Ponte Outo and following shortcut no. 10, or by taking the main dirt road.
Second and Third Loop (optional)
Those wishing to continue into Val Travenanzes should descend along the dirt road for about one kilometre, then take a path branching off to the right (pay attention to the signpost).
Crossing the Progoito forest, marked by the presence of numerous wartime trenches, the route descends to cross the gorge of the Rio Travenanzes at the Ponte di Acquarone.
After a short ascent on the right orographic side, the trail reaches path no. 401 of Val Travenanzes. It is recommended to follow this path uphill for a few hundred metres, as far as the base of the Landro, where an interesting rock shelter can be found.
Returning on the same path, the route crosses the Bosco dei Cadorìs to reach the ford of the Ru de Ra Ola. From here, an easy return to Ponte Outo is possible via the lower Ponte dei Cadorìs and the Cason dei Lagusciéi.
Ignoring the descent just mentioned, and also leaving aside path no. 408 towards Passo Posporcora, the route continues horizontally along a former trench, approaching the gorge of the Ru de Ra Vales.
After a short climb through bilberry shrubs, the path enters the gorge through a narrow opening; once past an area with large boulders, the valley is ascended as far as the base of a fine waterfall.
A series of switchbacks up a steep gully to the right allows regaining the upper edge of the gorge and path no. 408, which should then be followed to the left. Shortly before reaching the bridge over the Ru de Ra Vales, a short detour to the left offers a view of a spectacular sequence of potholes formed by evorsion on the bed of the stream.
From the junction near the bridge, the loop is closed by descending to the right along the Ria Longa path, which skirts the western slopes of Col Rosà.
The path leads back to the Val di Fanes road and, about one kilometre further down, to the Ponte di Pian de Loa on the Rio Fanes.
From here, all that remains is to return to the parking area at Ponte Felizon, or climb back up to the parking area at Torniché.
This route is included in my selection of the 8 via ferratas I recommend for beginners in the Dolomites .
FAQ – Fanes Waterfalls
The route includes sections of varying difficulty. Some parts run through exposed terrain and feature short equipped sections with fixed cables. A good level of sure-footedness and no fear of heights are therefore required. Several sections can be avoided by following alternative routes.
The equipped sections are not technically difficult; however, a slip can have fatal consequences. For this reason, the use of via ferrata equipment is always recommended, especially in wet conditions or when the route is crowded.
The recommended period runs from June to November. In spring and early summer, snowmelt significantly increases water flow, making the waterfalls and gorges particularly impressive.
Yes. The itinerary is organised into several loops and offers multiple intermediate exit points towards Pian de Loa and Ponte Outo, allowing hikers to adapt the route to their time, fitness level and experience.
Fanes Waterfalls – Technical Information
Difficulty
The route includes five short equipped sections with fixed steel cables, which require appropriate via ferrata equipment.
Three equipped sections are located at the Lower Fanes Waterfalls, one at the Sbarco de Fanes, and one at the Ru de Ra Vales waterfall.
It is nevertheless possible to complete the entire itinerary while avoiding the equipped sections, by passing via Ponte Outo on the outward leg and bypassing the crossing at the Lower Fanes Waterfalls.
The following periods should be avoided:
- times of heavy rainfall or thunderstorms, due to the risk of sudden flash floods;
- the winter season, when some exposed sections may be icy.
Therefore, as the route includes exposed terrain, albeit with generally wide paths and non-slippery footing, a head for heights is required.
Note
The equipped sections are not technically difficult; however, a slip can have fatal consequences, as has unfortunately occurred on this route in the past.
For this reason, the use of via ferrata equipment is always recommended.
Length
Circular itinerary of 8 km from the Pian de Loa junction, plus:
- 1.5 km of approach from the park entrance at Ponte Felizon, or
- 1 km from the parking area at Sant’Ubero (“Torniché”).
The total distance therefore ranges between 9 and 9.5 km.
Completing the full circuit requires a full day.
The individual loops, with return via Bus de l’Orso or Ponte dei Cadorìs, require a solid half day.
Elevation gain
Total elevation gain of 600–700 metres, depending on whether or not the equipped section at the Lower Fanes Waterfalls is avoided.
If the route is divided into two separate outings:
- 300–400 m for the Val di Fanes,
- approximately 300 m for the Travenanzes and Ra Vales valleys.
Best Season
From June to November.
In spring and early summer, snowmelt greatly increases water flow, making streams and waterfalls particularly impressive and offering the most spectacular scenery along the route.
Maps
Tabacco topographic map 1:25,000 – sheet no. 03
Cortina d’Ampezzo and Ampezzane Dolomites
Bibliography
The information provided here is based on the booklet
“Sentiero delle cascate e dei canyons”,
written by Dr. Michele Da Pozzo, Director of the Dolomites of Ampezzo Natural Park.
The publication of the itinerary map image was kindly authorised for Guidedolomiti by the Regole d’Ampezzo.
The image is protected by copyright and may not be reproduced.
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