People who spend a few days in Cortina usually come for the Dolomites: hiking, via ferratas, climbing and long days in the mountains. But you don’t always feel like walking for hours or taking on something demanding every day. Sometimes a quieter day is just what you need.
One interesting option is to leave the Ampezzo Dolomites behind for a few hours and head into the Puster Valley to visit the earth pyramids of Perca, not far from Brunico. This is not really a mountain hike, but an easy walk through the woods leading to one of South Tyrol’s most curious natural phenomena.
I visited them myself and I think they can be a nice idea for a rest day, especially because the visit doesn’t take very long and can easily be combined with a stroll through the centre of Brunico.
How the earth pyramids were formed
The earth pyramids of Perca are located above the village of Perca, in the area of Plata, on the northern side of the Puster Valley. When they first appear between the trees they are quite a sight: towers and pinnacles of pale earth rise side by side, many of them topped by a large dark boulder that looks almost as if it had been deliberately placed there.
In fact, that boulder plays a fundamental role in the formation of the pyramids. Their story began at the end of the last Ice Age, around 12,000 years ago, when the glaciers that filled the Puster Valley left large quantities of moraine material on the slopes, made up of earth, sand, gravel and fragments of rock of very different sizes.
Over time, rain and running water gradually eroded this material. Where a large, resistant block of rock lies within the deposit, however, the material directly underneath it remains protected, while the surrounding ground continues to be washed away.
Little by little, a column is left standing, becoming increasingly tall and slender and crowned by its characteristic stone cap. Some of the pyramids reach a height of around thirty metres.
These formations, however, are anything but permanent. When the boulder on top falls away, the column loses its protection and erosion begins to wear it down again. Some pyramids slowly disappear, while others continue to form: the landscape we see today is therefore only one stage in a natural process that is still continuing.
According to local documentation, an important moment in the formation of the present landscape occurred in 1882, when a violent storm deeply eroded the moraine deposit. Since then, water, frost and other weathering processes have continued to shape the slope and gradually reveal the forms we see today.
The walk to the earth pyramids of Perca
Coming from Cortina, once you reach Perca, follow the signs for Vila di Sopra (Oberwielenbach) and then for Plata. I left the car at car park P2, between Vila di Sopra and Plata, where the walk begins, and followed the signs for the Pyramidenweg, choosing the path that climbs through the woods. It is not possible to continue by car all the way to the pyramids.
The walk begins with the steepest section of the whole route, a short climb up a series of steps. Once past this first section, the gradient eases and the trail continues more gently through the woods. The route is well marked and along the way there are information panels and small installations explaining aspects of the local geology, nature and traditions.
Farther on, the woods give way to meadows near the Höllerhof farm. From the saddle below the farm, continue following the signs and, after a short distance, you reach the viewpoints overlooking the pyramids. This is where these unusual formations can be seen together, scattered across the steep slope and partly framed by the surrounding woods.
From the car park it takes approximately 45–50 minutes to reach the earth pyramids of Perca. Including the return, the walk is about 3 kilometres long, with an elevation gain of around 150 metres (490 feet). For the whole visit, however, I would allow around two hours, because it is pleasant to stop along the way to read the information panels and, once you reach the pyramids, spend some time looking at them and, of course, taking a few photographs.
So this is not really a mountain hike, but neither is it a completely flat walk. There are a few steep sections and the trail can naturally be damp or slippery, so it is best to wear suitable walking shoes.
Along the way there is also room for something a little less scientific. A local legend tells of a group of dwarfs who lived in the woods of Perca and who, after trying to steal a witch’s amulet and treasures, were punished by being turned into earth pyramids. Looking at some of their rather twisted shapes, with a little imagination you can still try to make out their faces.
A walk around Brunico
A visit to the pyramids takes up only part of the day and can easily be combined with a stroll around Brunico, which lies just a few kilometres from Perca. The historic centre is compact and pleasant to explore on foot, with Via Centrale, colourful building facades, shops, cafés and restaurants.
Coming from Cortina, you also notice a fairly clear change in atmosphere. The architecture of Brunico’s historic centre, with its Tyrolean and Central European character, is more reminiscent of Austrian towns than of the Dolomite villages we are used to. Language adds to this impression: we are, of course, still in Italy, but in this part of South Tyrol a large part of the population speaks German, and you hear it regularly in the streets, shops and cafés.
If you wish, you can also walk up to Brunico Castle, which overlooks the town and houses the Messner Mountain Museum Ripa. Otherwise, there is no need to plan anything in particular: you can simply stop for lunch, wander through the centre and enjoy a few unhurried hours.
In this way, starting from Cortina, a visit to the earth pyramids of Perca can become part of a pleasant day in the Puster Valley, particularly suitable when you feel like taking a break between more demanding days in the mountains.
