The Ferrata degli Alpini at Col dei Bos is a well-equipped via ferrata located above Passo Falzarego in the Ampezzo Dolomites.
The route ascends the south face of Col dei Bos (2,559 m), combining moderate technical difficulty with exposed sections and a distinctive World War I historical setting.
Built between 2007 and 2008 by the Italian Alpine Troops (Truppe Alpine), the ferrata follows part of an earlier military route dating back to the 1960s and incorporates innovative safety solutions developed specifically for this project.
Construction and development
The ferrata was built between November 2007 and November 2008 by the Italian Alpine Troops (Truppe Alpine). The project involved the installation of a permanent and experimental protection system along a former military route dating back to the 1960s.
According to the official report, the project introduced innovative installation techniques and new safety components intended to improve protection standards on via ferrata routes. The development of the “Ferrate Safety Project” was carried out in collaboration with KONG Spa.
Technical features and safety
One of the most distinctive features of the Ferrata degli Alpini is the use of specially designed anti-leverage cone devices developed by KONG. These elements are positioned near the anchor bolts and help reduce the negative leverage exerted on the carabiner in the event of a fall.
It is well known that a carabiner can fail if loaded improperly, particularly when stress is applied outside its major axis. The cone system therefore represents a significant improvement in managing forces along the safety cable and has become a reference model for subsequent installations in the area.
Historical context – World War I
The Col dei Bos area played a strategic role during World War I. The sector around Passo Falzarego and the Ampezzo Dolomites formed part of the front line between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian armies.
Along the route and in its immediate surroundings, numerous remnants of military infrastructure are still visible, including trenches, tunnels, defensive positions and remains of barracks.
These structures document the harsh operating conditions faced by soldiers deployed at high altitude in a demanding mountain environment.
Walking the Ferrata degli Alpini therefore also means crossing terrain marked by the history of mountain warfare, adding a distinct historical dimension to the route.
Historical remains near the upper slopes
Near the upper grassy slopes, not far from the exit of the ferrata, the remains of a small wartime cemetery can be found. Several young soldiers who fell during the conflict were buried here.
Additional military remains can be observed along the eastern side of the mountain, particularly below the summit dome.
Approach
The starting point of the Ferrata degli Alpini is located near Passo Falzarego, along the SS48 road between Cortina d’Ampezzo and the Falzarego Pass.
From the parking area at the “Da Strobel” restaurant (approx. 2,060 m), follow the clearly marked trail heading toward Col dei Bos from the north-east side of the parking lot.
The path quickly reaches a former military road leading to the remains of Italian World War I field hospitals situated below the Falzarego Towers. Stone structures and helicopter landing platforms are still visible in the area.
Continue east across grassy slopes toward the prominent south face of Col dei Bos. The descent gully, identifiable by steep switchbacks, is visible higher up to the left (north).
A short side trail leads to the base of the ferrata, where the steel safety cables are clearly visible on the rock face.
Approach time: approximately 30 minutes.
Route description
Initial section
The Ferrata degli Alpini begins with its most demanding section, functioning as a natural “filter” for the rest of the route.
The first vertical pitches immediately reveal the solid tension of the steel cable and the placement of the anti-leverage cone devices near the anchor bolts.
After approximately 80 meters of climbing, a broad scree ledge is reached. A short ramp leads to a brief steeper wall, followed by an exposed exit onto easier rocky slopes.
Central section
The central part of the route is less sustained but remains exposed. In this section the cable often serves primarily as a handrail, with the terrain allowing more fluid movement.
The anti-leverage devices are also used as intermediate cable breaks where conventional bolt placement was not feasible.
A second vertical wall follows, slightly more demanding, ending with an exposed traverse to the right. This leads into a well-defined dihedral that brings the climber to a grassy terrace.
Final section and exit
After crossing the grassy terrace for approximately 20 meters, the second part of the ferrata begins. This section alternates easier stretches with short, more technical passages.
Once a short unprotected segment is completed, the route follows a small saddle and continues across grassy ledges marked by cairns.
The final equipped section, approximately 100 meters in length, features vertical and exposed passages but offers solid natural holds and consistent protection.
Different anchoring systems can be observed along this upper section, reflecting the experimental nature of the original safety project.
The ferrata ends on the upper grassy slopes of Col dei Bos, below the final rocky summit band.
This route is included in my selection of the 8 via ferratas I recommend for beginners in the Dolomites .
The Mountain Guide’s Tip
The Col dei Bos via ferrata has become one of the most popular routes in the Cortina Dolomites. On sunny summer days, especially at weekends, it’s not unusual to encounter dozens, sometimes even hundreds, of people along the route.
When guiding clients during the busy summer months, I generally prefer an early start. This helps us get ahead of the larger groups, enjoy the cooler morning temperatures, and reduce the chance of being caught on the rock face by an afternoon thunderstorm. Of course, there’s no single ideal starting time throughout the year. In autumn, when the mountains are quieter and mornings are colder, it can be more pleasant to wait until the sun has warmed the rock.
What about starting in the afternoon? With a stable weather forecast and plenty of daylight, this can be a good way to avoid the crowds. However, I often meet people heading up towards the via ferrata around lunchtime while I’m already on my way down, sometimes with the weather visibly deteriorating. Before setting off in the afternoon, it’s essential to check the forecast, keep an eye on changing conditions, and allow enough time to complete the entire route, including the descent. Remember that the steel cables on a via ferrata are particularly dangerous during a thunderstorm.
Be prepared for queues. During busy periods, the route can take considerably longer than expected. Overtaking slower climbers, especially on steep or vertical sections, can be difficult and unsafe. My advice is to be patient, respect other people on the route, and never try to make up lost time by taking unnecessary risks.
What if you need to turn back? There are a couple of possible escape routes along the via ferrata, but these are not straightforward walking paths leading safely back down to the valley. They require mountaineering experience and technical skills, which is why I have deliberately chosen not to describe them in detail. Reversing the via ferrata itself can also be extremely demanding: descending steep, vertical sections is generally harder than climbing them. It’s therefore important to assess your abilities carefully before committing to the route.
Descent
Several descent options are available from the exit of the ferrata.
1. Direct Descent via the Gully between Col dei Bos and the Falzarego Towers
(Fastest option – approx. 1 hour)
From the exit of the ferrata, follow a visible trail heading west across grassy slopes and loose scree toward an unnamed saddle.
The descent continues into the gully located between Col dei Bos and the Falzarego Towers. Parts of the trail may be eroded or loose in places.
The path leads back to the remains of the World War I military hospital near the starting point. From there, retrace the approach trail to the parking area.
2. Forcella Travenanzes and Trail No. 402
(Approx. 1.5 hours)
From the unnamed saddle, continue west across rocky terraces and grassy slopes to reach Forcella Travenanzes.
From the pass, follow Trail No. 402 along the Lagazuoi ski slopes. Shortly before Passo Falzarego, turn left (east) onto Trail No. 423, which reconnects with the military road leading back to the parking area.
3. Forcella Col dei Bos and Trail No. 402
(Approx. 1.5 hours)
Alternatively, traverse east around Col dei Bos across grassy terrain toward Forcella Col dei Bos, near the Castelletto sector.
From the saddle, follow Trail No. 402, which becomes a military road. After passing through a short tunnel, continue for approximately 300 meters to a junction and turn right (west) to return to the former military hospital area and the parking lot.
Technical Data – Ferrata degli Alpini
Col dei Bos, Ampezzo Dolomites
Route Characteristics
- Difficulty
- Moderate (harder sections at the start)
- Exposure
- South-West
- Starting point
- Approx. 2,150 m
- Exit of ferrata
- Approx. 2,480 m
- Summit elevation
- 2,559 m
- Elevation gain (ferrata)
- Approx. 300 m
- Total equipped length
- Approx. 420 m
Time Estimates
- Approach
- ~30 minutes
- Ferrata ascent
- 2–2.5 hours
- Descent (Option 1)
- ~1 hour
Nearby Facilities
- Rifugio Col Gallina (2,055 m)
- Rifugio Lagazuoi (2,752 m)
- Da Strobel Restaurant (2,060 m)
Map
Tabacco Map 1:25,000 – Sheet No. 03 (Cortina d’Ampezzo & Ampezzo Dolomites)
Note: Times are indicative and may vary depending on conditions and experience.
Winter ascent
In winter conditions, when snow and ice are present, the Ferrata degli Alpini changes character significantly.
The route should no longer be considered a standard via ferrata. Snow cover, ice formation and avalanche exposure can transform sections of the climb into a mountaineering route requiring appropriate technical equipment and experience.
Crampons, ice axe and winter alpine skills may be necessary depending on conditions. Objective hazards must be carefully evaluated. For a more detailed overview of climbing via ferratas in winter conditions, see our guide on via ferrata in winter.
Winter ascents should only be attempted by experienced alpinists familiar with alpine terrain and winter risk management.
