Kaiserjäger Trail on Lagazuoi: route, difficulty and tips

The Kaiserjäger Trail is one of the most interesting routes on Lagazuoi, a mountain deeply marked by the events of the First World War. Starting from Falzarego Pass, the trail climbs the south-western slopes of Piccolo Lagazuoi, partly following the old route used by Austro-Hungarian troops to reach and supply their positions higher up the mountain.

Today, it is a fascinating protected trail combining the Dolomite landscape, spectacular views and traces of the First World War. Along the way you will encounter remains of military positions and trenches, as well as ledges and short protected sections. One of the most distinctive features is the suspension bridge, probably the best-known passage along the route.

From a technical point of view, the Kaiserjäger is not a difficult route, but it should not be underestimated: some sections are exposed and require sure-footedness and some experience of moving in mountain terrain. It is precisely this combination of hiking, short protected sections and history that makes the ascent of Piccolo Lagazuoi such a distinctive experience in the Dolomites around Cortina.

Difficulty of the Kaiserjäger Trail

The Kaiserjäger Trail is a technically easy protected trail, but it includes some exposed sections that require sure-footedness and a good head for heights. The main difficulties come not from climbing, but from the exposure and the mountain terrain encountered along much of the route.

The protected sections are equipped with steel cables and are concentrated mainly in the central part of the route. The most distinctive passage is the suspension bridge, followed by an exposed ledge; farther on, the trail alternates between normal hiking terrain and short protected sections.

For the Kaiserjäger Trail, I recommend a helmet, harness and via ferrata set. Although the technical difficulties are modest, this equipment allows you to clip into the cable on exposed sections and move along the route more safely.

It is also worth remembering that the ascent from Falzarego Pass to the summit of Piccolo Lagazuoi involves around 670 metres of elevation gain. The length of the ascent, the altitude and the weather conditions should therefore also be taken into account when assessing the overall difficulty of the hike.

Route from Falzarego Pass to Piccolo Lagazuoi

From Falzarego Pass to the start of the protected section

The route starts at Falzarego Pass (2,107 m), near the lower station of the Lagazuoi cable car. From here, follow trail no. 402, which initially climbs along the ski slope towards Lagazuoi.

After a few minutes, leave the main trail and turn sharply left, following the signs for the Kaiserjäger Trail. The path crosses the south-western slopes of Piccolo Lagazuoi diagonally and leads towards the Vonbank position, an extensive system of trenches and fortifications built by the Austro-Hungarian army during the First World War.

After passing the position, the trail gradually gains height through a series of switchbacks, approaching the rock face of Piccolo Lagazuoi. This brings you to the beginning of the protected section, where the character of the route changes and the more interesting and exposed passages of the ascent begin.

The suspension bridge and the protected section

The protected section begins by climbing a short, narrow gully, aided by a few metal steps. Immediately afterwards, the route follows a ledge leading to the suspension bridge, one of the most distinctive and photographed features of the Kaiserjäger Trail.

After crossing the bridge, the route continues along a narrow, exposed ledge protected by a steel cable, before climbing over some easy rocky terrain. The technical difficulties remain modest, but the exposure is noticeable here and it is important to proceed with care.

Continuing upwards, you reach one end of the Cengia Martini on your right, one of the most important Italian positions on the Lagazuoi front during the First World War. From this point, however, the ledge cannot be followed in its entirety, as it soon comes to an end. The access for those wishing to follow the Cengia Martini is on the opposite side, much farther along, near the exit of the Lagazuoi Tunnel.

The Kaiserjäger Trail, however, continues to the left, leaving the Cengia Martini behind.

From the protected trail to the summit of Piccolo Lagazuoi

Leaving the Cengia Martini behind on the right, the Kaiserjäger Trail continues to the left and steadily gains altitude. The difficulties gradually ease, and the route follows the ledges and slopes of Lagazuoi, with a few sections still protected by cables where the terrain is more exposed.

As you climb higher, the views become increasingly expansive, accompanying the final part of the route until you reach the ridge of Piccolo Lagazuoi. From here, a short walk leads to the summit cross of Piccolo Lagazuoi (2,778 m).

From the summit, you can continue for a few minutes to Rifugio Lagazuoi (2,752 m), located near the upper cable car station. Its panoramic terrace offers exceptionally wide views across some of the major mountain groups of the Dolomites.

Reaching the rifugio does not necessarily mean the end of the hike: there are three very different ways to return to Falzarego Pass, from the easy descent by cable car to the route through the Lagazuoi Tunnel.

How to descend from Lagazuoi

Once you have reached the summit of Piccolo Lagazuoi and the nearby rifugio, there are three different ways to return to Falzarego Pass. The choice depends on the time available, the conditions and the kind of hike you would like to complete.

Descent through the Lagazuoi Tunnel

The most interesting option from a historical point of view is to descend through the Lagazuoi Tunnel, the extensive system of tunnels excavated inside the mountain by Italian soldiers during the First World War.

Following the tunnel allows you to complete the day by literally passing through the interior of Lagazuoi, giving you a better sense of the extraordinary scale of the war fought on this mountain.

The descent is steep and much of it is in darkness, so carrying a headlamp is essential. The ground inside can also be damp and slippery, so care is needed.

Descent along the Sentiero del Fronte

If you prefer to remain outdoors, you can return to Falzarego Pass along the Sentiero del Fronte, following CAI trails no. 401, 402 and 412.

This is a hiking option that allows you to complete the entire route on foot, avoiding the long descent through the tunnel.

Descent by cable car

The easiest and quickest option is, of course, the Lagazuoi cable car, which descends directly from the upper station to Falzarego Pass.

This can be a good choice if the weather is deteriorating, if you are tired, or if you prefer to focus the day on the ascent along the Kaiserjäger without adding another long descent.

The history of the Kaiserjäger Trail

Who were the Kaiserjäger?

The trail takes its name from the Kaiserjäger, infantry regiments of the Austrian Imperial Army, and later the Austro-Hungarian Army, whose soldiers were recruited mainly in Tyrol.

Despite what the name might suggest, the Kaiserjäger were not specifically mountain troops. Like many other soldiers deployed on the Dolomite front, they had to learn to cope with entirely new conditions: altitude, cold, snow, rock faces and terrain that made even ordinary supply operations extremely difficult.

During the First World War, Lagazuoi was a strategic point on the front between Falzarego Pass and Valparola Pass. Today, these positions, trenches and tunnels form part of the Lagazuoi Open-Air Museum of the Great War. The trail we follow today had a very practical purpose at the time: it provided access to the Austro-Hungarian positions high on the mountain and was used to carry food, ammunition and other essential supplies to the troops.

Walking the Kaiserjäger Trail today therefore means following a route created not for hikers, but out of the everyday needs of men who lived and fought on these mountains.

Cengia Martini

The Cengia Martini was one of the most important and fiercely contested Italian positions on the Lagazuoi front. Between 18 and 19 October 1915, while Austro-Hungarian troops occupied the summit of the mountain, two groups of Italian Alpini managed to reach and occupy this long ledge crossing the rock face of Piccolo Lagazuoi.

The position was of great strategic importance. From the ledge, the Italians could threaten the Vonbank position from above, the Austro-Hungarian defensive system protecting access towards Valparola Pass, which we encountered during the first part of the ascent.

The Austro-Hungarians made repeated attempts to drive the Italians from the position, but without success. Meanwhile, the Cengia Martini was progressively fortified: shelters and barracks were built into the rock, providing accommodation for up to 140 men.

The ledge was named after Major Ettore Martini, commander of the Val Chisone Alpini Battalion and the man behind the operation that led to its occupation. The position remained in Italian hands until the retreat of November 1917, resisting repeated Austro-Hungarian attempts to capture it, including the use of powerful mines.

More than a century later, perhaps we can allow ourselves a small play on words: Martini on the rocks. Never has the expression been more geographically appropriate.

When to hike the Kaiserjäger Trail

The best time to hike the Kaiserjäger Trail is generally from mid-June to October, although conditions can vary considerably from year to year. After a winter with little snow, the route may be accessible earlier, while in other years some sections can remain snow-covered for longer, especially in the upper part of the trail.

During the summer months, I recommend starting early in the morning. Besides enjoying cooler temperatures and fewer people on the trail, thunderstorms in the Dolomites are more frequent in the afternoon. On an exposed and partly protected route such as the Kaiserjäger, it is always better to be away from sections equipped with steel cables when the weather becomes unstable.

An early start also allows you to enjoy the suspension bridge and the narrower passages more peacefully, as having many people on these sections at the same time can considerably slow your progress.

Before setting out, it is always important to check the current trail conditions and weather forecast, particularly at the beginning and end of the season.

My advice for the Kaiserjäger Trail

I particularly recommend the Kaiserjäger Trail to those looking for something more than a simple hike. It is not a true via ferrata and the technical difficulties are modest, but it offers more interesting terrain than a normal hiking trail, in a spectacular setting rich in historical remains.

To really appreciate the route, don’t rush. Take the time to stop at the military positions, look at the trenches and try to imagine what it must have been like to live for weeks or months on these slopes. Lagazuoi is an easily accessible mountain today, but during the First World War it was the scene of one of the most remarkable chapters of the conflict fought at high altitude.

If you have enough time and the necessary equipment, I personally find it particularly interesting to combine the ascent along the Kaiserjäger with the descent through the Lagazuoi Tunnel. The two routes tell the story of the same mountain from two opposite perspectives: the Kaiserjäger follows the network that connected the Austro-Hungarian positions, while the tunnel takes you through the works constructed by the Italians inside the mountain.

For anyone tackling a protected trail for the first time, the Kaiserjäger can be a very rewarding experience, provided you are reasonably fit, sure-footed and comfortable with exposure. If you are unsure about your abilities, the trail conditions or the weather, it is better to choose an easier route or go with a mountain guide.

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