In November 2007 the Italian military, based in Bolzano, established the via ferrata Col dei Bosferrata col dei bos alpini. This “Via ferrata degli Alpini” follows the line of an existing route and works were completed in November 2008.
The ferrata ascends the South Face of the Col dei Bos pyramid (also referred to as Col dei Bois) and was established using steel cables, innovative cones which optimise carabiner placements during falls and particular bolt reinforcements placed where the cable changes angle acutely.
GETTING THERE ferrata col dei bos alpini
From Cortina d’Ampezzo drive towards Passo Falzarego via the SS48. Park the car circa 1.5km before the pass, at km 107.3 at the restaurant “Da Strobel” opposite the pistes close to Rifugio Col Gallina (2050m).
ACCESS ferrata col dei bos
From “Da Strobel” take the obvious path from the NE edge of the car park, following signs for ferrata Col dei Bos, to reach the military road which soon leads to remnants of the Italian First World War hospital located beneath the Torri di Falzarego. A dry-stone wall marks the landing spot for helicopters, while to the north one can make out the descent path which zig-zags steeply down the gully. Continue east past the ruins and across the meadows towards the Col dei Bos pyramid. A path leads off from here, initially traversing at altitude, before gaining height rapidly to reach the start of the via ferrata. The steel cables can be made out from below.ferrata col dei bos
The itinerary follows a logical line up the face and the first section, which acts as a “filter”, is certainly the hardest. The cable tension and anti-fall cones can be appreciated right from the outset on these vertical sections. After circa 80m the ferrata leads to a wide and easy chossy ledge and then a ramp which, in turn, leads to a short wall which is exited via exposed moves on easy rocky slopes.
From here the ferrata continues easily and the cables substantially acts as a handrail until the ferrata reaches another vertical, demanding wall. At the top of this an exposed traverse right leads to a corner and then a grassy section. ferrata col dei bos
Cross the 20m grassy slope to reach the second half of the via ferrata, which is characterised by somewhat easier terrain and the occasional technical section. The second traverse is particularly panoramic and offers splendid views onto the entire Cortina basin. This is certainly the easiest part of the entire route and it terminates by descending a short ridge after having reached the summit of the Col dei Bos pyramid at 2400m.
The ferrata Col dei Bos now finishes on a small col.
On the left (NW) there is an escape route (WARNING: for experts only), which is also the descent route for climbers who reach the summit of the Pyramid. This short cut leads to the grassy slopes and joins the path which descends between Col dei Bois and the Torri di Falzarego.
Af the end of the ferrata follow the route along the col and after an easy ascent marked by cairns reach final ferrata section, 100m long and at times exposed and vertical, but always with plenty of holds which ensure fun and easy climbing. On this final section note the different anchor systems which form part of the “ferrata safety” project.
Reach the summit meadows, close to the splendid Col dei Bos rock faces. From this stupendous natural balcony enjoy the fascinating view onto the summits in the Ampezzo basin.
The Col dei Bos summit and cross (2559m) can be reached via a short walk by following the numerous tracks upwards or by walking east beneath the rock face past the numerous remains of the First World War and ascending to the summit up the grass gully a few hundred meters to the east. ferrata col dei bos alpini
Normal via ferrata kit
This ferrata can be linked to the nearby tunnels on Lagazuoi or Castelletto di Tofana.
DO YOU WANT TO CLIMB IT IN WINTER?
It’s amazing, have a look here!
Rifugio Col Gallina (2055 m) Tel. +39 0436 2939
Rifugio Lagazuoi (2752 m) Tel. +39 0436 867303
Ristorante da Strobel (2060 m) Tel. +39 0436 3609
Tabacco – 1:25.000 n° 03 – Cortina d’Ampezzo e Dolomiti Ampezzane. Buy it online, here!
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