Ferrata in the Dolomites. The top via ferrata guide

Ferrata in the Dolomites: your ultimate guide

Hello! Welcome to the ultimate online guide to Via Ferratas in the Dolomites. You’re in the right place if you’re looking for detailed information on these thrilling mountain routes. I am an alpine guide, born and raised in Cortina d’Ampezzo, in the heart of the Dolomites. I climbed my first Ferrata in the Dolomites as a child, and today, I continue to guide people on some of the most beautiful routes in these magnificent mountains.

Besides continuing to guide my clients on the via ferratas, I was involved in constructing and maintaining several via ferratas in Cortina d’Ampezzo alongside my colleagues for many years. This experience gives me the confidence to say that I know these spectacular routes inside and out. Everything on this page is based on firsthand experience.

Quick reality check: a via ferrata is not automatically safe just because there are cables. In the Dolomites, many routes are exposed alpine terrain where weather, fatigue, and route choice matter a lot.

With that, let’s dive into the world of via ferratas: what they are, the essential equipment you’ll need, the potential hazards you may encounter, how to navigate them safely, and much more.

INDEX

What is a Via Ferrata?
History and Origins of the Via Ferrata.
Difficulty rating.
What equipment do I need for a via ferrata?
Technique and tips.
What not to do on a Via Ferrata.
Do you want to stay safe and learn more?

Topics about Via Ferrata

If you’d like to explore further, scroll to the bottom of the page — you’ll find an index of related topics dedicated to via ferrata routes in the Dolomites. These articles are meant to clarify common questions, explore technical aspects, and help you find your way among difficulty levels, seasons, and itinerary types.

What is a Via Ferrata?

A via ferrata is an alpine climbing route equipped with fixed steel cables, ladders, and various anchors such as wooden walkways and suspended bridges, installed to help climbers move across steep and exposed rock.

In the Dolomites, via ferratas often follow very airy terrain: ledges, ridges, vertical walls, and narrow passages high above the valleys. The equipment does not turn the route into a hike — it simply makes these alpine passages accessible to people who are not technical rock climbers.

A steel cable runs along most of the route and is used together with a via ferrata safety set to reduce the consequences of a slip or fall. It is a protection system, not a guarantee of safety: weather, rock conditions, fatigue, and correct technique remain essential.

Via ferratas in the Dolomites also offer a unique historical and scenic experience. Many routes follow ledges, tunnels, and paths built by soldiers during the Great War, allowing visitors to explore trenches, fortifications, and posts from World War I while moving through spectacular mountain scenery.

Via ferratas in the Dolomites are not managed like park trails or adventure courses — they are part of the high mountain environment, where conditions can change quickly and responsibility lies with each individual party.

History and Origins of the Via Ferrata

The idea of making access to a pass, summit, or refuge easier dates back a long time. In 1492, Antoine de Ville, captain of the French army, described the use of a ladder to reach the summit of Mont Aiguille.

However, the first Italian via ferrata did not appear until 1880, when the alpine guides of Madonna di Campiglio equipped the eastern face of Cima Brenta to facilitate their clients’ passage.

In the following years, especially in the Eastern Alps, other equipped paths were created to cross otherwise inaccessible terrain and to allow troops to move and control border areas. In the Dolomites in particular, many via ferratas have a military origin and were built during the harsh years of the mountain war from 1915 to 1918.

The first via ferrata in the Dolomites

A curious fact: the first via ferrata in Cortina d’Ampezzo was created thanks to the ingenuity of Luigi Gilarduzzi, known as “Minighèl,” in 1907. A blacksmith by trade and the manager of the former Rifugio Wolf von Glanvell in Val Travenanzes (destroyed by Italian artillery in August 1915), he realized there was a much faster and more direct way to reach Rifugio Cantore (now Rifugio Giussani) than the old trail.

On his own, he forged and drove nearly 200 iron pegs into a steep rock wall, creating what is now known as the Scala del Minighèl.

Over time, via ferratas have become an important part of alpine tourism. Today they are a popular recreational activity — but they remain alpine routes on exposed terrain, requiring preparation, judgment, and respect for the mountains. The fixed equipment makes passage possible; it does not remove the need for proper skills, equipment, and awareness.

Difficulty rating

The difficulty of a via ferrata depends largely on the steepness of the rock and on the quality and abundance of natural rock features for hands and feet, together with the amount of artificial protection and aids.

It is important to distinguish between a sentiero ferrato (“equipped path”) and a via ferrata. A sentiero ferrato is meant to make a dangerous, exposed, or slippery section of a hiking route easier to pass, but it does not involve sustained vertical climbing. A via ferrata, by contrast, often follows vertical or near-vertical walls, and sometimes even short overhanging sections. Very easy equipped routes are usually called sentieri ferrati, while more demanding ones are referred to as vie ferrate.

However, technical difficulty is only one part of the overall challenge. Even an easy route can become serious or dangerous in the presence of snow, ice, or strong wind, and sudden changes in weather can quickly turn a manageable outing into a risky situation.

The length and commitment of a route also play an important role. For example, the Sentiero Ferrato Ivano Dibona on Monte Cristallo is a beautiful Dolomite route with no major technical difficulties. Nevertheless, it is known for a high number of rescue interventions. Although technically easy, it is long, exposed, and physically demanding, and it often pushes less fit participants to their limits. In addition, many people — misled by the “easy” label in guidebooks — start too late in the day or with inadequate equipment, which further increases the risk of accidents.

Grading system for the via ferratas in the Dolomites

Like rock climbing, a system for assessing the difficulty level via ferratas has been established. Some ferratas may be considered dangerous not due to their technical difficulty but because of objective hazards, such as falling rocks or the frequent presence of snow and ice. However, these “dangerous” factors are noted in the routes’ descriptions and do not affect the grading of the via Ferrata’s technical difficulty.

DIFFICULTY	FEATURES OF THE VIA FERRATA
EASY (F)	Low exposure, not very demanding via ferrata with long sections on a trail.
NOT VERY DIFFICULT (PD)	A via ferrata that is long but generally not very exposed. It doesn’t require much physical strength and is always facilitated by the installed anchors.
DIFFICULT(D)	Ferrata that requires good physical fitness and technical skills. It overcomes some short overhangs with athletic moves.
VERY DIFFICULT (TD)	A via ferrata with technical and sometimes acrobatic passages, continuous exposure. It requires arm strength and a complete lack of vertigo. Excellent physical condition is essential.
EXTREMELY DIFFICULT (ED)	Sometimes referring to a single passage specifically designed to challenge the climber to the maximum. The artificial anchors are reduced to increase the difficulty of the via ferrata.

To learn more about the topic, visit the page dedicated to Ferrata’s difficulty grades.

What equipment is needed for a via ferrata in the Dolomites?

In addition to standard mountain equipment (appropriate clothing, a backpack, a first aid kit, food, and water), you need specific gear to move safely on a via ferrata. This includes a helmet, a climbing harness, a via ferrata lanyard set with energy absorber, and via ferrata gloves, which protect your hands from cold and abrasion.
Footwear also deserves careful attention, as it plays a crucial role in stability, comfort, and safety on rocky and exposed terrain.
A headlamp, ice axe, and crampons may sometimes be necessary, depending on the route, the altitude, and the time of year.

Below you’ll find a closer look at the characteristics each piece of via ferrata equipment should have.

HELMET FOR VIA FERRATA

The helmet is simply a mandatory item. It is essential for climbing safely via Ferrata. Contrary to the widespread belief that a climbing helmet is only meant to protect the head from rocks that may fall from above, its role extends far beyond this scenario.
A high-quality climbing helmet is not only a guardian against potential dangers related to falling rocks but also a crucial safeguard in case of a fall.

Nowadays, ferratas are very popular, and those ahead of you often accidentally dislodge loose rocks. Moreover, in the unfortunate event of a fall, there is a risk of overturning, with the danger of hitting your head against the rock. A helmet is an essential piece of equipment for via ferratas.

The vast market offers a wide range of helmets, which can be divided into three main categories based on their structure:

1 – Hard-shell helmets
2 – Foam helmets
3 – Hybrid climbing helmets
For via ferratas, I recommend a sturdy hard-shell helmet.

HARNESS

The harness, or climbing harness, is another essential piece of equipment for via ferrata. There are many manufacturers, but generally, we can divide harnesses into two main types: the waist harness and the full-body harness.

Almost everyone nowadays uses a waist harness to climb any via Ferrata in the Dolomites. I recommend the waist harness, which consists of a waistband (around the hips) and two leg loops connected by a webbing ring (the service ring). This harness allows for greater freedom of movement and is lightweight.

On the other hand, the full-body harness consists of leg loops and shoulder straps. It is less practical and comfortable than the waist harness and can be inconvenient when wearing a shirt or windbreaker.

Full-body harnesses are commonly used in industrial and rescue contexts. They are most suitable for children but are generally not recommended for adults.

The exception arises when carrying a heavy backpack or load, where a full-body harness may be a better option.

To summarize, a waist harness is the preferred and more comfortable choice for adults for most climbing and via ferrata activities in the Dolomites, as it offers an excellent balance between mobility and safety.

FERRATA LANYARD

The Ferrata lanyard comprises two webbing straps or cords, a shock absorber, and carabiners. Various brands and types are available on the market, but be careful—not all are equally reliable! Considering that this equipment can save your life while ascending a via Ferrata in the Dolomites, I recommend choosing it carefully, even if it means spending a bit more to ensure maximum reliability and safety during your mountain adventures.

In climbing practice, a dynamic rope acts as an elastic stopper in case of a fall. However, in the case of via ferrata, since the ascent is done individually, short sections of rope are used in the via ferrata lanyard, which results in a high fall factor.

Il fattore di caduta “Fc” è il rapporto tra l’altezza di caduta libera e la lunghezza della corda coinvolta dal volo. Il valore massimo che il fattore di caduta può raggiungere nella pratica alpinistica (arrampicata) è pari a 2.

On a via ferrata, however, the fall factor—an essential measure of the severity of a fall—can easily exceed a value of 2. Click on the following link for a clear and detailed explanation of the fall factor. Without getting into technical details, all we need to know is that the higher the fall factor, the more severe the consequences of the fall.

To address this situation, the two sections of rope used are equipped with a shock absorber, which cushions the fall and drastically reduces the fall factor.

I recommend the Kinetic Gyro Rewind Pro. The renowned German magazines Alpin and Bergsteiger have paid attention to Ferrata kits and awarded the CAMP Kinetic Gyro Rewind Pro. The Gyro system on the CAMP Ferrata lanyard has been recognized as the best anti-tangling system available.

Another highly recommended product is the Cable Comfort VI by Edelrid. It is a high-quality Ferrata lanyard with highly durable elastic arms and exceptional ease of use. It complies with the new European safety standards for Ferrata kits. Like the Kinetic Gyro Pro, this Ferrata lanyard also features an integrated swivel component that prevents the ends from twisting during use.

What is a Ferrata lanyard made of?

The Ferrata lanyard is made up of several components, including:

Carabiners: These connect the lanyard to the steel cable via Ferrata.
Elastic arms: Flexible arms that allow freedom of movement while maintaining a connection to the cable.
Swivel ring: The swivel ring prevents the arms from twisting.
Shock absorber: This component cushions the forces in the event of a fall, enhancing safety.
Connection ring: This ring connects the Ferrata lanyard to the climber’s harness.

These components work together to provide safety and flexibility for those climbing via Ferrata routes.

How does a Via Ferrata lanyard’s energy shock absorber work?

The critical element of a Via Ferrata lanyard is the shock absorber, also known as the energy dissipator. It extends the braking distance and thus reduces the forces during a fall. The most common design for shock absorbers is the progressive tearing construction, which consists of a strap sewn onto itself to allow for a gradual tear in the event of a fall.

⚠️ Many tests have shown that in the event of a fall, the lack of an adequate braking device can lead to the breakage of carabiners and, in some cases, the rope’s breaking. Look at this video; it’s in German, but the images speak for themselves. It’s not uncommon to see people climbing via ferrata using short sections of rope with carabiners attached. Such improvised setups will not save the person in the event of a fall, as they will not be able to handle the fall factors involved. Do not imitate these people!

CARABINERS

Carabiners are a fundamental element of the equipment. Before purchasing, pay attention, for example, to the carabiners via the Ferrata lanyard, which must ensure quick and easy one-handed operation. The locking system SHOULD NOT be screw-type.

Via Ferrata, carabiners are designed with a secure and easy-to-use closure system, even when wearing gloves. To open them, simultaneously press the release lever on the back and the front lever. Once released, the connector closes automatically. An excellent example of functional carabiners is the Tango connectors from Kong and Horai from CAMP.

The Kong Tango carabiner features a wide opening, allowing for the attachment of even large-diameter cables. Its ergonomic shape, optimal grip, and opening system enable easy attachment and detachment with one hand.

As for the Horai from CAMP, it stands out as an exceptionally robust Ferrata carabiner. It boasts an ergonomic design for excellent grip, providing superior handling.

VIA FERRATA GLOVES

Via-ferrata gloves are a handy accessory. In recent years, the Dolomites have replaced the old metal cables with slightly thicker ones that offer better grip. However, since they are not as smooth as the previous ones, they tend to cause hand blisters. To avoid this annoying issue, it is enough to wear via-ferrata gloves, which protect the hands from abrasions, shield from the cold, and provide a firm grip on the Ferrata cable.

I highly recommend that you equip yourself with gloves, as even a tiny wound can make the climb less pleasant, if not dangerous, over time.

You can find two types of Ferrata gloves on the market: half-finger or full-finger.

Although most sellers recommend half-finger gloves, I prefer and always use full-finger gloves.

This website participates in the Amazon affiliate program. Some links may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you and help support my work.

VIA FERRATA SHOES

Shoes are an essential element of the equipment. Approach shoes are used for climbing via Ferrata. These sturdy yet lightweight shoes provide good sensitivity for climbing. The sole offers excellent grip on the rock and is designed to allow you to walk on approach and descent trails without slipping.

Be careful not to climb a via Ferrata in tennis shoes or moccasins. While some sneakers may offer good grip and allow easy climbing on the Ferrata, they are less effective when descending a scree slope once you reach the top. Besides failing to protect your feet adequately, tennis shoes will wear out quickly if used on scree slopes. Also, if it rains, you’ll soon find your feet soaked.

Classic, bulky hiking boots are also not ideal, as their soles are generally inflexible and unsuited for climbing. And they are heavy!

If you’re about to purchase, look for footwear with optimal sensitivity and a good grip on vertical surfaces. These are essential for tackling challenging terrain, such as via ferrata in the Dolomites.

An excellent example of Ferrata shoes is the Mescalito GTX by Scarpa. These durable and waterproof approach shoes perform well on ferratas and mountain trails, even on rainy days.

Scarpa is my main and reliable sponsor. This top-level brand provides me with approach shoes, climbing shoes, and ski boots. There is only one word to describe Scarpa products: exceptional!

I love Scarpa products for their high level of safety and durability. Moreover, continuous technical innovations ensure shoes are suitable for every type of outdoor activity.

HEADLAMP, ICE AXE, AND CRAMPONS

When it comes to via Ferrata equipment, it’s important to note that an ice axe and crampons can sometimes be helpful. Especially at the beginning of the season, when snow persists on the highest peaks and north-facing slopes.

A short section without a steel cable can become complex and dangerous when snow or ice is present, especially during the ascent of a via ferrata in the Dolomites. In conclusion, improper Ferrata equipment can lead to severe accidents.

Carrying a headlamp or flashlight is essential when traversing the numerous tunnels dug by soldiers during World War I in the Dolomites.

Safety tips for via ferratas in the Dolomites

The following points are not a complete instruction manual, but a set of essential principles and good practices to help you approach via ferratas more safely and responsibly.

Preparation

Before starting a via ferrata, study the route in advance and check for possible escape options along the way and at key points. Always consult the weather forecast: in the event of a thunderstorm, the steel cable becomes a real lightning attractor, making the situation extremely dangerous.
Before beginning the ascent, check your equipment and put on your harness, via ferrata set, and helmet in a protected area, away from zones exposed to possible rockfall caused unintentionally by people above you or by animals moving on the slopes.

Always stay attached to the cable

Once you reach the start of the via ferrata, clip your carabiners to the steel cable and move along the route by letting them slide on it. The hand on the cable should stay below the carabiners, so that you can push them upward, while you use your other hand and your feet to take advantage of the natural features of the rock.
Avoid climbing with both hands directly on the rock: if you want to climb in that style, it is better to choose a rock climbing route, not a via ferrata.

Hold on to the cable on the via ferrata in the Dolomites.

At least one carabiner must always be clipped

On a via ferrata you move in self-belaying, staying attached to the cable with the two carabiners of your via ferrata set. A single carabiner is not sufficient, because the cable is fixed to the rock with anchors that prevent a carabiner from sliding past them. You therefore need to unclip and reclip at each anchor. If you were using only one carabiner, you would be momentarily unattached during this maneuver.
With two carabiners, however, you can remain continuously attached to the cable: unclip the second one only after the first has already been clipped past the anchor.

Carabiner on a via ferrata in the Dolomites.

Use your legs efficiently

Rely as much as possible on your feet and legs for upward movement, and avoid pulling too much with your arms, which tire much more quickly. The legs are larger, stronger, and more enduring muscles, designed to support your body weight and push you upward.

Move as if you were climbing a ladder: shift your weight onto your feet first, step up with your legs, and use your arms only for balance and stability, without unnecessarily loading them with your body weight. In this way you will save energy, reduce fatigue, and move more precisely.
Thinking about your feet before your hands helps you move in a more fluid, controlled, and efficient way along the entire via ferrata, especially on longer and more exposed sections.

Keep a safe distance from others

Two people should never be on the same section of cable between two consecutive anchors at the same time. In the event of a slip or fall by the person ahead, there is a real risk of being hit or dragged along with them, with obvious and potentially serious consequences. Keeping the proper distance increases everyone’s safety, reduces the load and stress on the anchor system, and allows each person to move calmly and deliberately, without pressure from those ahead or behind.

Keeping proper distance on ferrata in the Dolomites.

Do not compromise on equipment

Invest in high-quality, certified equipment: in the event of a fall it can make a fundamental difference for your safety and that of others, especially in critical situations and under high loads. A good via ferrata set works properly to absorb the energy of a fall and to reduce the forces acting on your body and on the anchors, limiting the loads transmitted through the system.
Remember that after any significant fall, the via ferrata set must be replaced, even if it appears intact.

Don't skimp on the purchase of the via ferrata set

What not to do on a Via Ferrata

1. Failing to secure yourself to the steel cable

Although it may seem obvious, it’s crucial to always secure yourself to the steel cable with the lanyard while progressing via Ferrata. In my work, I’ve often seen people tackling a Ferrata without being properly secured. Unfortunately, just this year, a hiker lost his life due to a fall because he wasn’t attached to the cable. He was undoubtedly a skilled climber but made a grave mistake that cost him his life. Never underestimate the importance of this simple but vital action.

2. Not using the cable for progression

It’s essential to hold onto the cable while advancing on the ferrata. I often encounter people who climb without using it, slowing down the progress of others behind them and sometimes causing long delays. This is an entirely incorrect practice. If you want to climb, it’s better to do so on the many climbing routes in the Dolomites, relying on an alpine guide if necessary. Underestimating the role of the cable via Ferrata is a mistake. Even though the equipment may stop a fall, serious consequences such as fractures and injuries are still risks. The golden rule is simple: always hold onto the cable, at least with one hand. It’s unacceptable for those behind to have to wait for someone who decides to climb the rock.

3. Not allowing faster climbers to pass

Slower climbers should stop and let faster climbers pass. Even if it may seem complicated, overtaking those in front of us on the via Ferrata, even in the exposed sections, is always possible, as long as the slower climber stops at the right moment. Slower climbers must stop and allow faster climbers to pass to ensure smooth and safe progression for everyone.

Do you want to stay safe and learn more about the via ferratas of the Dolomites?

Would you like to experience a via ferrata with confidence and proper preparation?
If you are new to exposed or vertical terrain, hiring a certified mountain guide is one of the best ways to reduce risk, learn correct techniques, and become familiar with the proper use of equipment.

A guide helps you choose routes that match your level, adapt the plan to conditions, and build the skills you need to move independently and responsibly in the future.

Thanks to their local knowledge and experience, a guide can organize the outing in the most appropriate way and respond effectively to changing weather, terrain, and group needs — allowing you to focus on learning, moving safely, and enjoying the mountains.

BOOK YOUR GUIDE !