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Bolted multi-pitch routes

dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs

Sport climbing – A selection of Dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs

In Italy, for the bolted routes we use the French system. Click on the following link to the climbing grades conversion.
dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs

Tofane

On the walls of Tofana di Rozes there are about fifteen bolted routes.
All these routes are beautiful but require climbing experience and full mastery of the degree. Forewarned is forearmed!dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs

a) Tofana di Rozes
“ASPETTANDO LA VETTA” by Massimo Da Pozzo and Gianmario Meneghin
Here we offer the easiest bolted route of the south face of Tofana di Rozes. Despite being bolt protected run-outs are not uncommon…
Access: drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona.
Lenght: 450m.
Face: south-east
Difficulty: 6b+

“QUEL CALCARE NELL’ANIMA” di Marco Sterni, Mauro Kraus, Marco Giuffrida e Serena Bonin
Great climb, superb rock. The difficulties are continuous and the route is strenuous due to its length.
Access: From Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1km before the pass, next to a red house (ex bar/restaurant Ra Nona).vie moderne con spit
Lenght: 380m
Face: west
Difficulty: 6b+,6c

b) Castelletto
“LA GRANDE GUERRA” by Marco Sterni, M.Florit and M.Sacchi
Another great sport route. It is completely equipped with 10 mm bolts.dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs
Access: from Cortina take the road that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1km before the pass, next to a red house (ex bar/restaurant Ra Nona).
Lenght: 210m
Face: west
Difficulty: 7a (6b obbligatorio)

Croda da Lago – Passo Giau

a) Torrione Marcella – Lastoi de Formin
“NIKIBI” di Mario Dibona e Gretchen Alexander
Given the route’s difficulty, the bolts and beauty, Nikibi is destined to become a modern classic up this mountain. dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs
Access: drive towards Passo Giau from Cortina and park the car on the left next to the sign for “Muraglia di Giau”.
Lenght: 300m
Face: north-west
Difficolty: 6b

b) Lastoi de Formin
“SUPER TEGOLINA” by F. Piardi and F. Tremolada
A nice, sustained climb up the large central pillar on the west face, bolted on lead.dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs
Access: Approach this climb by driving down from Passo Giau towards Cortina, parking the car after some hairpin bends and following the obvious path no. 436 towards the Forcella Giau. After the wood the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that come down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to beneath the wall and reach the start of the route to the right of a diagonal ramp, at the bottom of a crack. Allow about an hour for the walk-in.
Lenght: 350m
Face: west
Difficulty: 6b+

c) Spiz de Mondeval – Lastoi de Formin
“RE ARTÙ” by Mario Dibona
Not to be missed!
Access: park the car in the obvious lay-by on the left, 200 m beneath Passo Giau. Follow the path to Forcella Giau (40 min) and continue to the middle of the face (leftwards) to a large cairn with the route name marked on it (10 min from the col).
Lenght: 300m
Face: south
Difficulty: 5, 6+, AO (6b)

d) La Gusella del Nuvolau, east face
Three challenging routes, by Massimo Da Pozzo

Fanis

b) Piccolo Lagazuoi
“ORIZZONTI DI GLORIA” by Roly Galvagni, D.Filippi and G.Mittemberger
Nice route on excellent rock. Full equipped with bolts 10mm. Quickdraws and a couple of friends (just in case).
Access: park the car at Lagazuoi ‘s cablecar station.
Lenght: 250m
Face:south
Difficulty: 5+, 6a

c) Torre Grande di Falzarego
“THE WALL” by Mario Dibona
A nice climb, an easy and short approach, it is completely equipped with bolts.
Access: from Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 300 m before the pass, next to the bar/restaurant “Strobel”.
Lenght: 250m
Face: south-east
Difficulty: from 6a to 6c+

Val Rienza

Col di Mezzo – Parete del pianoro
“HAT SPASS GEMACHT” di Hannes Pfeifhofer
Beautiful route on solid rock. Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through some open books, demanding and varied.
Access: park the car near the Hotel Tre Cime, halfway from Cortina to Dobbiaco.
Lenght:: 450m
Face: north-west
Difficulty: 6b+

Group of Sella

a) Prima Torre del Sella
“DELENDA CARTHAGO” di Roly Galvagni e Massimo Maceri
Beautiful and logical climbing up the south face of Prima Torre del Sella.
Access: Passo Sella.
Lenght: 180m
Face: south
Difficulty: 6b

b) Torre Brunico
“OTTOVOLANTE” di Francesco Piardi, Francesco Tremolada, Claudio Zampieri
Great climb, on excellent rock, not to be missed!
Access: leave the car at the Via ferrata Tridentina parking lot a few hairpin bends below Passo Gardena in the direction of Corvara.
Lenght: 400m
Face: north
Difficulty: 7a

c) Mur del Pissadu’
“ORO E CARBONE” di Francesco Piardi e Francesco Tremolada
This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. The climbing is both technical and strenuous.
Access: leave the car at the Via ferrata Tridentina parking lot a few hairpin bends below Passo Gardena in the direction of Corvara.
Lenght: 400m
Face: nord
Difficulty: 7a


Visit PlanetMountain website for routes details.

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