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Bolted multi-pitch routes

dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs

Sport climbing – A selection of Dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs

For the trad routes the grades are the UIAA grades, which go from I to XII and for aid climbing, grades from A0 to A4 are used.
Click here for the rock climbing grades conversion. dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs

Tofane

a) Tofana di Rozes
“ASPETTANDO LA VETTA” dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs
by Massimo Da Pozzo and Gianmario Meneghin
On the south wall of Tofana di Rozes there are about ten bolted routes.
All these routes are beautiful but require climbing experience. Here we offer the easiest route, but beware: requires full mastery of the degree, despite being bolt protected run-outs are not uncommon…
Access: drive to Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from Rifugio Dibona.
Lenght: 450m.
Face: south-east
Difficulty: 6b+

b) Castelletto
“LA GRANDE GUERRA” dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs
by M.Florit, M.Sacchi and M.Sterni 2003
Great modern sports route. It is completely equipped with 10 mm bolts.
Access: from Cortina take the road that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1km before the pass, next to a red house (ex bar/restaurant Ra Nona).
Lenght: 210m
Face: west
Difficulty: 7a (6b obbligatorio)

Croda da Lago

a) Lastoi de Formin
“SUPER TEGOLINA” dolomites bolted multi pitch climbs
by F. Piardi and F. Tremolada 1999
A nice, sustained climb up the large central pillar on the West Face, bolted on lead.
Access: Approach this climb by driving down from Passo Giau towards Cortina, parking the car after some hairpin bends and following the obvious path no. 436 towards the Forcella Giau. After the wood the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that come down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to beneath the wall and reach the start of the route to the right of a diagonal ramp, at the bottom of a crack. Allow about an hour for the walk-in.
Lenght: 350m
Face: west
Difficulty: 6b+

b) Spiz de Mondeval – Lastoi de Formin
RE ARTU‘”
by Mario Dibona
A series of new bolt routes have been established in recent years at Lastoni di Formin. The area is one of the most beautiful of Cortina, the rock is very solid and usually go up never have problems with crowds, probably because the approach to the climbs requires a walk of over an hour.
Access: park the car in the obvious lay-by on the left, 200 m beneath Passo Giau. Follow the path to Forcella Giau (40 min) and continue to the middle of the face (leftwards) to a large cairn with the route name marked on it (10 min from the col).
Lenght: 300m
Face: south
Difficulty: 5, 6+, AO (6b)

c) La Gusella del Nuvolau, east face
Three challenging routes, by Massimo Da Pozzo

Fanis

b) Piccolo Lagazuoi
“ORIZZONTI DI GLORIA”
by R.Galvagni, D.Filippi and G.Mittemberger 2005
Nice route on excellent rock. Full equipped with bolts 10mm. Quickdraws and a couple of friends (just in case).
Access: park the car at Lagazuoi ‘s cablecar station.
Lenght: 250m
Face:south
Difficulty: 5+, 6a

c) Torre Grande di Falzarego
“THE WALL”
by Mario Dibona 2007
A nice climb, an easy and short approach, it is completely equipped with bolts.
Access: from Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 300 m before the pass, next to the bar/restaurant “Strobel”.
Lenght: 250m
Face: south-east
Difficulty: from 6a to 6c+


Visit PlanetMountain for routes details.

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