Sport climbing and crags in Cortina d’Ampezzo
Sport climbing in the Dolomites
Cortina is not only about big walls and traditional alpinism. It is also one of the richest areas in the Dolomites for sport climbing, with beautiful dolomite rock, forests and exceptional scenery.
In this guide I have gathered some of the most interesting crags around the valley, with practical notes and honest advice from someone who has known these places for a lifetime.
The best crags around Cortina d’Ampezzo
To help you choose among the many sectors in the area, below you will find a selection organised by style, grade, season and ease of access.
How to choose the right crag
Good for beginners Friendly routes for newer climbers Most iconic The classic names of Cortina climbing Worth knowing Excellent crags often overlooked For stronger climbers Harder sectors and athletic climbing If it rains Useful options in unsettled weather Cool in summer Best choices for hot days Quick access Fast and convenient approachesGood for beginners
For newer climbers or anyone looking for accessible grades and closely bolted routes, these are some of the best options near Cortina.
Most iconic
The landmark crags of the Cortina area: dramatic settings, dolomite rock and places every climber should visit at least once.
Worth knowing
Perhaps less famous than the great classics, but absolutely worthwhile for rock quality, setting or climbing style.
- Croda da Lago
- Duca
- Val Rienza
- Lake
- San Bodo
- Sass Dlacia
- Son Pouses (old-school slabs)
For stronger climbers
Sectors where finger strength, endurance and solid technique matter. Some of the hardest and most athletic climbing in the area is found here.
If it rains
When the weather is uncertain or passing showers are around, these crags can offer better chances than many other sectors.
Cool in summer
On hot days it is wise to look for altitude, shade or cooler aspects. These are among the most pleasant choices in midsummer.
Instant access
When time is short or you simply want to climb without a long walk-in, these crags are practical and fast to reach.
Why climb in Cortina d’Ampezzo
Cortina is not only about big walls and classic alpinism. For sport climbers, the valley offers a remarkable number of crags in an exceptional setting: forests, sunlit cliffs, high-altitude sectors and some of the finest scenery in the Dolomites.
There are more than two thousand single-pitch routes spread across the Cortina basin and nearby valleys, with options for many levels: from friendly beginner lines to demanding routes for experienced climbers. Different aspects also make it easier to choose the right crag according to season and temperature.
The real added value, however, is not only the amount of climbing available, but the environment itself: climbing in Cortina means spending a sporting day in an extraordinary mountain landscape.
Indoor climbing near Cortina
When the weather does not cooperate, there are several good indoor alternatives. In Cortina there is a modern climbing gym with walls up to 25 metres high. Other appreciated facilities nearby include Vertik Area Dolomiti, Climbing Zoo in Longarone, Nordic Arena in Dobbiaco, Dolomiten Arena in Sesto Pusteria and the climbing centre in Brunico.
Cortina crag guidebook
For climbers wishing to explore independently, I recommend the guidebook “Falesie a Cortina d’Ampezzo” (Idea Montagna), a useful and updated reference for access notes, sectors and the main climbing areas of the region.
The new climbing crags guidebook is available in bookstores, and a few copies can also be found at the indoor climbing facility in Cortina. The book will be distributed by Idea Montagna throughout Italy, Austria, Germany, and the UK, and can also be purchased online at www.ideamontagna.it.
Guide to the best crags around Cortina d’Ampezzo
Below you will find a selection of the most interesting crags in the area, with practical notes and genuine impressions built over many years of climbing here.
The grades shown refer to the French grading system, now the most widely used scale at Italian sport crags.
Crépe de Oucèra basse
A highly regarded crag above Cortina d’Ampezzo, known for technical climbing on slabs and sculpted vertical walls. A place that rewards precision, balance and good route reading, set in a beautiful Dolomite environment.
📍 Setting: a pleasant wall surrounded by nature, in a მშვიდ and scenic forest above the Cortina basin.
🧗 Style: technical slab climbing on vertical and featured rock.
🎯 Level: best suited to climbers with some experience. Most routes are in the 6th grade.
🚶 Approach: very convenient, حوالي 10 minutes.
📏 Route length: from 20 to 35 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 80 lines.
☀️ Best season: from spring to autumn, particularly enjoyable in the cooler seasons.
⭐ Why go: an excellent choice for elegant climbing on classic Dolomite rock.
Crèpe d’Oucèra Basse is a crag that often appeals to climbers who enjoy thoughtful climbing and clean movement. The routes do not always give themselves away immediately — but that is exactly what makes them so rewarding when everything comes together.
Crépe de Oucèra alte
One of the historic and most appreciated crags above Cortina, well known for the quality of the rock and for technical climbing on superb dolomite. A magnificent setting with an alpine atmosphere, while still being a sport climbing venue.
The crag is divided into four sectors, from right to left: Fedora, the first wall reached from the path, Magica armonia, higher up the slope to the left, Babuska, the area of large overhangs, and finally Dita di burro, at the far left end of the cliff.
📍 Setting: sunny wall in a beautiful Dolomite landscape.
🧗 Style: technical and elegant climbing, mainly on vertical walls and sculpted slabs.
🎯 Level: ideal for climbers with a solid base looking for quality routes from mid grades upward.
🚶 Approach: 10 to 20 minutes (depending on the sector).
📏 Route length: from 15 to 40 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 80 lines.
☀️ Best season: from spring to autumn; especially pleasant in the cooler seasons.
📝 Note: for the longer routes, an 80-metre rope is essential.
⭐ Why go: combines high-quality climbing, beautiful rock and an outstanding mountain setting.
Crèpe d’Oucèra Alte is an excellent choice for climbers looking for a rewarding day out in an authentic place. Many routes require precise footwork and good movement reading, with a very satisfying feel throughout the climb.
Croda da Lago
One of the most scenic crags in the Cortina d’Ampezzo area, overlooking Lago Federa in a truly special Dolomite setting. Here, climbing blends with an environment of rare beauty, making every day something memorable.
📍 Setting: outstanding position above Lago Federa, surrounded by forests and spectacular mountains.
🧗 Style: varied climbing on excellent rock, with enjoyable routes and generally technical, engaging movement.
🎯 Level: suitable for a range of abilities, with good options both for experienced climbers and those looking for mid-grade routes. Most climbs are around grade 6.
🚶 Approach: longer than many crags in the Cortina basin, but the setting more than makes up for it.
📏 Route length: from 20 to 35 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 30 lines.
☀️ Best season: summer and early autumn; particularly pleasant in warm months thanks to the altitude.
📝 Note: one of the best choices for combining good climbing with a true Dolomite atmosphere. The nearby Rifugio Palmieri at Lago Federa is also an excellent place to stop.
⭐ Why go: few crags offer such a perfect balance of climbing quality and spectacular surroundings.
Croda da Lago is not just a climbing destination, but a full mountain experience. Ideal for those who appreciate beautiful places as much as the routes themselves.
Cinque Torri
One of the most iconic places to climb above Cortina d’Ampezzo, with a spectacular setting and some of the finest views in the Dolomites. Climbing here means combining excellent rock, alpine history and a truly unique environment.
📍 Setting: high altitude, outstanding Dolomite scenery, a truly authentic alpine atmosphere.
🧗 Style: varied climbing on excellent rock, from technical slabs to steeper and more overhanging walls.
🎯 Level: suitable for a wide range of climbers, with many options from intermediate grades to more sustained and challenging routes.
🚶 Approach: convenient and relatively short, ideal for a straightforward day without complex logistics.
📏 Route length: from 10 to 40 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 140 single-pitch routes, plus numerous classic multi-pitch climbs.
☀️ Best season: from late spring to autumn; an excellent choice in summer thanks to the altitude and the possibility to follow the shade.
⭐ Why go: probably the most emblematic crag in the Cortina area, and the historic playground of the Scoiattoli di Cortina.
📝 Note: thanks to the favourable exposure of the south face of Torre Grande, it is often possible to climb here even in winter on sunny days. For more details on access, routes and sectors, see also the dedicated page on the Cinque Torri.
The Cinque Torri offer a wide variety of routes and sectors, allowing you to choose according to sun, temperature and climbing level. For anyone visiting Cortina and looking for a memorable day on the rock, this remains one of the best choices.
Averau – Renè De Pol crag
A high-altitude crag at the foot of Averau, set in one of the most beautiful landscapes around Cortina. An open setting, exceptional views and enjoyable climbing make this sector a very appealing choice during the warmer months.
📍 Setting: high altitude, magnificent Dolomite scenery between Averau, Nuvolau and wide views over the surrounding mountains.
🧗 Style: varied climbing on good rock, with fun routes and generally enjoyable movement.
🎯 Level: particularly suitable for beginners, with closely spaced bolts ideal for those starting to lead climb. Here you can find route names and grades.
🚶 Approach: about 10 minutes from Rifugio Averau. Very convenient if using the chairlift from Fedare.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 20 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 15 single-pitch routes.
☀️ Best season: summer and early autumn; ideal on hot days thanks to the altitude.
⭐ Why go: one of the most scenic places to climb above Cortina d’Ampezzo.
The surrounding landscape adds a lot to the overall experience and makes this a particularly enjoyable destination.
La lavagna (the Blackboard)
The name says it all: a wall as smooth as a blackboard. La Lavagna is a large isolated boulder, around fifteen metres high. Only three very hard lines have been bolted on its steep overhanging face. Well known among strong climbers for the intensity of the moves and the quality of the main wall. Here it is not about quantity, but about the level: 8b+ – 8c/8c+ – project.
📍 Setting: a compact sector in the forest, with a nice view over the Cortina basin.
🧗 Style: powerful climbing on small edges, sloping holds and vertical grips, with explosive and very physical moves.
🎯 Level: only for high-level climbers.
🚶 Approach: حوالي 20 minutes.
📏 Route length: from 12 to 15 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 3 single-pitch routes.
☀️ Best season: spring and autumn, or cooler days; best conditions when it is not too warm.
📝 Note: only three routes, all very hard: 8b+, 8c/8c+ and one open project.
⭐ Why go: very few lines, but full of character and highly selective climbing.
The most famous route, “La Lavagna” (8c/8c+), is a morphological line where reach, precision and the ability to solve compulsory moves on small edges are key. A tiny crag in size, but a big one for those who love high-end sport climbing.
Bèco di Ajàl
One of the most spectacular crags above Cortina d’Ampezzo, renowned for its long, sustained routes on overhanging walls. A panoramic setting, physical climbing and highly rewarding lines make it a favourite for those looking for an intense experience. Given the generally high level of climbers visiting the crag, the bolts are relatively spaced.
📍 Setting: exceptional panoramic position with open views over the Cortina basin.
🧗 Style: long and continuous routes, athletic endurance climbing on overhangs and sustained walls. The difficulty is consistent throughout.
🎯 Level: best suited to climbers with solid experience and good fitness, especially in the mid-to-hard grades. Most routes are around grade 7.
🚶 Approach: about 30 minutes.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 40 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 60 lines.
☀️ Best season: summer and warm days, when the exposure and setting make it particularly enjoyable.
📝 Note: not the place for short, bouldery routes; this is all about endurance and pacing. For the longer routes, an 80-metre rope is essential.
⭐ Why go: for many climbers, one of the best sport climbing experiences in the Cortina area.
Becco d’Ajal is an excellent choice for those who want to test themselves on long, sustained routes, where efficient movement and energy management all the way to the anchor are key. On summer days, it remains one of the most rewarding options for both climbing quality and setting.
Sasso di Colfiere
A small but interesting crag above Cortina d’Ampezzo, appreciated for its quick access and a number of technical routes on good rock. The main wall (east face) is slightly overhanging and has seen generations of climbers, so holds and footholds can feel quite polished.
On the opposite side, you will find a near-vertical slab with very technical climbing. These routes are less frequented, as the rock is often damp.
📍 Setting: a quiet forest sector with a pleasant, compact atmosphere.
🧗 Style: fingery climbing on small edges and occasional pockets. Short but intense routes.
🎯 Level: suited to experienced climbers. Interesting routes both for those with solid experience and for those looking to improve technique and footwork. Most routes are around grade 6.
🚶 Approach: very quick and convenient, one of the main advantages of the crag.
📏 Route length: from 8 to 12 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 15 single-pitch routes.
☀️ Best season: from spring to autumn; a good option when you are looking for something practical.
📝 Note: perfect when time is limited or when you want to climb without long logistics. For more details on access, routes and characteristics of the crag, see also the dedicated page on Sasso di Colfiere.
⭐ Why go: a small, convenient and worthwhile crag, often underestimated.
Sasso di Colfiere is a smart choice for those who know the area and appreciate less obvious but solid climbing spots. Maximum height 13 metres. Fast access, a pleasant setting and technical climbing make it more interesting than it might appear at first glance.
Duca
The crag takes its name from the nearby Rifugio Duca d’Aosta. An open setting, easy access in season and outstanding views make this a very pleasant place to combine climbing and scenery.
The wall starts with a first section of about 20 metres on vertical, solid grey rock with moderate grades. Above, the climbing steepens into an overhang with higher difficulty. Many routes are therefore split by an intermediate anchor.
📍 Setting: high altitude, magnificent scenery with views over the Cortina basin and surrounding peaks.
🧗 Style: varied climbing on good-quality rock, with enjoyable routes and generally pleasant movement.
🎯 Level: the lower section is mainly around grade 6a+. The upper overhanging section develops on yellow rock with many pockets and edges, offering more sustained, endurance-style climbing. Most routes are around grade 6.
🚶 Approach: very convenient in season thanks to the chairlift to Rifugio Duca d’Aosta, followed by about 15 minutes on foot.
📏 Route length: from 18 to 40 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 18 lines.
☀️ Best season: summer and early autumn; ideal in warmer months thanks to the altitude.
📝 Note: for the longer routes, an 80-metre rope is essential. For an overview of the wall, you can view this image of the crag.
⭐ Why go: a pleasant crag combining good climbing, easy access (chairlift) and a superb panorama.
The Duca crag is a good option when you want to climb in an alpine environment without committing to long or complex approaches.
Campo and Volpèra crags
Rather than a single crag, Campo e Volpera is a collection of small sectors scattered through the forest above Cortina d’Ampezzo. A very interesting area for those looking for intense sport climbing, with physical routes and distinctive lines on various walls and boulders.
📍 Setting: forest sectors, quiet and shaded, with a compact and pleasant atmosphere, especially on hot days.
🧗 Style: athletic and powerful climbing, often on overhanging walls — sometimes very steep — with sustained and physical movement.
🎯 Level: best suited to trained climbers with solid experience. Routes are generally short and intense.
🚶 Approach: short, but finding the different sectors is not always straightforward if you do not know the area well.
📏 Route length: from 8 to 25 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 60 lines.
☀️ Best season: spring, summer and early autumn; a good option even in hot periods thanks to the forest setting.
📝 Note: the area includes several sectors, such as Volpera Alta, Volpera Bassa and Campo, each with a separate access.
⭐ Why go: a complete destination for those who want to climb hard near Cortina, with plenty of variety.
Volpera Alta (Sasso dei Finanzieri) and Volpera Bassa are reached from the parking area just below the Pocol tunnel, near a large boulder. The Campo sector has a different access from the village of Campo di Sotto. Although the sectors are not the easiest to find on a first visit, the quality and intensity of the climbing more than make up for the time spent finding your way.
Son Pouses
A historic crag above Cortina d’Ampezzo, well known among local climbers for its technical slab climbing. A sector with real character, where balance, precise footwork and the ability to read the rock are essential.
📍 Setting: a quiet forest crag with a compact and pleasant atmosphere.
🧗 Style: technical slab climbing, often in a classic style, with subtle movement and strong emphasis on footwork.
🎯 Level: well suited to climbers with a solid technical base who enjoy precision climbing more than pure strength. Most routes are around grade 6.
🚶 Approach: about 20 minutes.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 28 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 22 lines.
☀️ Best season: spring, summer and early autumn.
📝 Note: a crag especially appreciated by those who enjoy a more “old-school” style, where holds are scarce and careful footwork and balance are essential. The rock here is limestone, not the typical Dolomite rock.
⭐ Why go: an excellent place to refine technique, balance and footwork sensitivity.
Son Pouses is not about explosive strength, but about experience and movement. A very worthwhile destination for those looking for thoughtful and refined climbing near Cortina. Few climbers know what Son Pouses once was. You can read more about its history during the First World War here.
Sass de Stria
One of the most suitable crags around Cortina d’Ampezzo for beginners or for those looking for a relaxed and enjoyable day of climbing. An open setting, easy access and many well-protected routes make it a very popular choice.
📍 Setting: sunny and panoramic wall in the Falzarego area, with a beautiful Dolomite backdrop.
🧗 Style: easy and enjoyable climbing on slabs and gently angled walls, ideal for gaining confidence on rock.
🎯 Level: particularly suited to beginners and those starting to lead climb, thanks also to the good bolting. Most routes are around grade 5.
🚶 Approach: very quick and convenient.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 25 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 27 lines.
☀️ Best season: from late spring to autumn; especially good in the cooler seasons.
📝 Note: also an excellent choice for families or for a first outdoor climbing experience in the Dolomites.
⭐ Why go: one of the best easy crags in the Cortina area.
Sass de Stria (Witch’s Rock) is a smart choice when you want to climb without complicated logistics, in a beautiful and relaxed environment. For more details on access, routes and characteristics of the crag, see also the dedicated page on Sass de Stria.
Setsas
One of the more demanding crags in the Falzarego area, ideal for those looking for high-quality sport climbing in a Dolomite setting. A substantial wall and long routes make Setsas a favourite among motivated climbers.
The crag is divided into two sectors: Canyon (to the east) and Sasso Bianco (to the west).
In the Canyon sector you will find very long routes — some over 40 metres — on yellow and grey rock, often overhanging.
The Sasso Bianco sector offers vertical to overhanging climbs on a yellow wall, located just above the trail at the base of Setsas.
📍 Setting: a large high-altitude wall, open and panoramic, surrounded by spectacular Dolomite scenery.
🧗 Style: technical, endurance-based climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging walls, often sustained and demanding.
🎯 Level: best suited to climbers with solid experience looking for mid-to-hard routes. Most climbs are around grade 7.
🚶 Approach: about 30 minutes to Canyon, 45 minutes to Sasso Bianco.
📏 Route length: from 25 to 40 metres (some routes are even longer).
🪢 Number of routes: 45 lines.
☀️ Best season: summer and early autumn; very enjoyable in warm months thanks to the altitude.
📝 Note: the length of the routes and the character of the wall clearly set it apart from many of the smaller crags in the area.
⭐ Why go: an excellent destination for those looking for long routes and sustained climbing.
Setsas is a very good choice for a full day of alpine-style sport climbing, on longer and more continuous lines compared to smaller half-day crags. A crag well worth considering for those who enjoy climbing in a bigger mountain setting.
Lagazuoi
A high-altitude crag in one of the most spectacular areas of the Dolomites above Cortina d’Ampezzo. Climbing at Lagazuoi means combining rock, views and alpine atmosphere in a truly unique setting.
📍 Setting: outstanding scenery among Dolomite walls, with wide views over the Falzarego area and the Cortina basin.
🧗 Style: varied climbing on excellent rock, with enjoyable routes and technical movement on a vertical wall in a striking environment.
🎯 Level: suitable for beginners, with closely spaced bolts. Most routes are around grade 5.
🚶 Approach: about 30 minutes on foot from Passo Falzarego.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 30 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 27 lines.
☀️ Best season: summer and early autumn; ideal in warm months thanks to the altitude.
📝 Note: on a wall further to the left (west) of the main crag, new routes have been developed. These climbs are significantly harder than those in the main sector. For more details on access, routes and characteristics, see also the dedicated page on the Lagazuoi crag.
⭐ Why go: to climb at altitude in one of the most iconic areas of the Dolomites.
Lagazuoi is an ideal destination for those looking for something a bit different: wide views and a real mountain atmosphere. It also combines well with a visit to the First World War tunnels nearby.
Salares
An interesting crag in the Falzarego–Val Badia area for those looking for big walls and characterful sport climbing. Salares offers long, sustained routes in a wide and spectacular Dolomite setting.
📍 Setting: a large, open and sunny wall in a beautiful alpine environment between Passo Falzarego and Alta Badia.
🧗 Style: mostly technical, endurance climbing on overhanging terrain, with small edges and vertical holds.
🎯 Level: best suited to climbers with experience looking for mid to hard routes. Most climbs are around grade 7.
🚶 Approach: about 15 minutes.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 40 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 43 lines.
☀️ Best season: summer and autumn; very enjoyable in warm months thanks to the altitude.
⭐ Why go: the rock dries quickly after rain. An excellent destination for those who enjoy long, sustained and physically rewarding routes.
Salares is a very good choice for a full day of climbing, on lines that require both mental focus and physical endurance. A crag worth considering for motivated climbers looking for something more than short single-pitch routes.
Sass Dlacia crag
An interesting crag between Passo Falzarego and Alta Badia. Sass Dlacia features a distinctive main wall, alongside numerous boulders and smaller sectors offering a variety of climbing styles.
📍 Setting: a beautiful Dolomite environment, between forest and open mountain terrain, in a quiet and panoramic location.
🧗 Style: the main wall offers mostly technical and sustained climbing, often fingery and endurance-based; in the smaller sectors you will also find more athletic walls and some overhanging sections.
🎯 Level: suitable for a range of abilities, with opportunities both for experienced climbers and for those looking for variety in style and difficulty. Most routes are in the 6th and 7th grades.
🚶 Approach: from 15 to 30 minutes (depending on the sector).
📏 Route length: from 15 to 35 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 200 lines.
☀️ Best season: from late spring to autumn; particularly pleasant in summer.
📝 Note: the presence of several sectors makes it easy to choose the style of your day: technical fingery climbing or more physical routes.
⭐ Why go: a versatile crag, interesting and never monotonous.
Sass Dlacia is an excellent choice for those who appreciate complete areas, where you can change style without moving far. A very good destination both for focused sessions and for exploring a variety of routes in the same place.
Crags in Cortina: Rio Gere
A crag that delivers great satisfaction, well appreciated by many climbers for the strong character of its routes and the physical climbing on overhanging walls. A classic choice for those looking for serious, rewarding lines.
📍 Setting: a forest crag, cool and pleasant in warm months, conveniently located above Cortina.
🧗 Style: athletic endurance climbing on overhanging walls, with powerful movement.
🎯 Level: best suited to experienced climbers with good fitness, especially in the mid-to-hard grades. Most routes are around grade 7.
🚶 Approach: about 20 minutes.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 40 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 20 lines.
☀️ Best season: summer and warm days, when the shade and cooler environment make it particularly enjoyable.
📝 Note: for the longer routes, an 80-metre rope is essential. The bolting is more spaced than at many other crags: it requires experience and composure, although falls are generally safe thanks to the overhanging terrain.
⭐ Why go: outstanding routes with real character that tend to stay in your memory.
Rio Gere is an excellent choice when you want to climb hard without complicated logistics. The style demands commitment, strength and endurance — qualities that have made this crag a reference point for many local climbers and beyond. For more details on access, routes and characteristics, see also the dedicated page on the Rio Gere crag.
Crepo Longo – Faloria
A scenic crag above Cortina d’Ampezzo, appreciated for its spectacular Dolomite setting and the variety of routes on the main wall. A good choice for those looking for a day of climbing in an open environment with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains.
📍 Setting: an exposed wall in a panoramic position, surrounded by classic Dolomite scenery.
🧗 Style: varied sport climbing on a vertical wall with plenty of holds.
🎯 Level: many easier routes available. Most climbs are around grade 6.
🚶 Approach: about 20 minutes using the cable car.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 30 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 26 lines.
☀️ Best season: from late spring to autumn.
📝 Note: a nice option if you want to combine climbing with scenery, with that open, airy feel typical of the Dolomites.
⭐ Why go: varied routes, plenty of easier lines, a scenic setting and a genuine mountain atmosphere.
Crepo Longo is a pleasant destination if you want to step away from the more popular crags and spend a day on the rock in a beautiful natural setting. The combination of climbing and views makes it a very rewarding choice. For more details on access, routes and characteristics, see also the dedicated page on the Crepo Longo crag.
Geierwand
A characterful crag known for technical, sustained and often demanding climbing. The yellow wall offers athletic routes up to 35 metres high. This is certainly not a beginner venue: despite a few 6a and 6b routes, the climbing is selective, with many lines in the 8th grade.
📍 Setting: located at around 1700 metres, Geierwand overlooks Lago di Landro and offers an impressive view over the entire valley below.
🧗 Style: technical and sustained climbing on vertical to slightly overhanging walls, requiring careful footwork and good route reading.
🎯 Level: ideal for experienced climbers who enjoy longer routes and precise movement. Most climbs are in the 7th and 8th grades.
🚶 Approach: about 30 minutes. Steep and tiring, but well worth the effort.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 35 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 25 lines.
☀️ Best season: from late spring to autumn, choosing the time of day according to the aspect.
⭐ Why go: elegant routes and very satisfying climbing for those who enjoy technique and continuity.
The crag stays dry even after heavy rain. Geierwand is an excellent choice for a solid day of sport climbing in a typically alpine environment. A crag to take your time with, where you climb on classic Dolomite rock.
Landro
This crag was developed in the early 1980s. The climbing area is divided into two sectors: the lower sector features easy slab routes and vertical climbs of moderate difficulty, while the upper sector, further left, offers mainly overhanging lines.
📍 Setting: a wall set in the forest, just a few steps from the main road.
🧗 Style: easy slab climbing and moderate vertical routes in the lower sector; more athletic, overhanging climbing in the upper sector.
🎯 Level: suitable for both beginners and experienced climbers. Most routes are around grade 6.
🚶 Approach: extremely convenient, about 1 minute.
📏 Route length: from 12 to 40 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 68 lines.
☀️ Best season: from late spring to autumn, choosing the best time of day depending on the season.
⭐ Why go: very easy access, and it is often possible to climb even with light rain.
Landro is a good option when climbers have different levels, thanks to the presence of very easy routes alongside more demanding lines. A versatile crag where both can find suitable routes and enjoy the day on the same wall.
Franchi
An athletic crag known for its steep walls, overhanging sections and intense climbing. A good choice for those looking for physical routes where strength, endurance and a steady rhythm often make the difference.
📍 Setting: located in Val di Landro, in a cool and pleasant position between Cortina d’Ampezzo and Dobbiaco.
🧗 Style: athletic climbing on steep and overhanging walls, with physical and sustained movement.
🎯 Level: best suited to intermediate and advanced climbers accustomed to endurance routes. Most climbs are in the 7th and 8th grades.
🚶 Approach: about 5 minutes.
📏 Route length: from 15 to 30 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 22 lines.
☀️ Best season: from April to October.
📝 Note: compared to nearby Landro Classica, the climbing here is more physical and sport-oriented.
⭐ Why go: a good option for steep, athletic routes without a long approach. It is also possible to climb here even in rainy conditions.
Franchi is recommended for those looking for an energetic day of climbing on Dolomite rock.
Val di Landro crags: Lake
A highly scenic and striking crag above Lago di Landro, in a location where climbing and landscape come together in a rare way. A very photogenic sector.
📍 Setting: an elevated wall with direct views over Lago di Landro and the surrounding valley.
🧗 Style: mainly climbing on edges and pockets, on vertical to slightly overhanging walls.
🎯 Level: suitable for intermediate and advanced climbers, with some excellent routes also for stronger climbers. Most routes are in the 6th and 7th grades.
🚶 Approach: about 20 minutes.
📏 Route length: from 12 to 26 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 36 lines.
☀️ Best season: from late spring to autumn.
⭐ Why go: to climb beautiful sport routes in one of the most spectacular settings in Val di Landro. Also appreciated by companions and photographers.
The crag boasts two real standouts among Dolomite single-pitch routes: “Milchstrasse” and “Wunderwerk”, not extreme in difficulty but truly unmissable for their quality and sustained climbing.
Val Rienza
The Val Rienza crag is appreciated for its quiet setting and varied climbing on compact dolomite. A good choice for those looking for a pleasant day away from the busier areas, with quality sport routes in a natural environment.
📍 Setting: located in the green Val Rienza, between forest and mountains, with a cool and relaxed atmosphere.
🧗 Style: technical and sometimes demanding climbing on edges and pockets. There are two main sectors, lower and upper; the harder routes are concentrated in the upper sector.
🎯 Level: best suited to intermediate climbers, with options also for stronger climbers. Most routes are in the 6th and 7th grades.
🚶 Approach: about 50–60 minutes.
📏 Route length: from 10 to 36 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 56 lines.
☀️ Best season: from late spring to autumn; particularly pleasant in summer thanks to the shade of the forest.
📝 Note: despite the longer approach, it is well worth a visit, as you climb in a spectacular setting directly facing the north faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
⭐ Why go: to climb in a quiet environment, with good sport routes away from the crowds.
Val Rienza is a good choice for those who want to explore a quieter corner of the Dolomites, where climbing goes hand in hand with the pleasure of a day in nature.
San Bodo
San Bodo is a crag with real character, well known among local climbers for the quality of the rock and for technical, sustained and often demanding climbing. It is an ideal destination for those looking for routes that truly require skill, where precision, movement reading and continuity matter as much as pure strength.
📍 Setting: a quiet forest sector with a secluded feel and excellent rock quality.
🧗 Style: vertical to slightly overhanging walls, with technical climbing on small edges and holds.
🎯 Level: particularly interesting for intermediate and advanced climbers, with several routes of good difficulty. Most climbs are in the 6th and 7th grades.
🚶 Approach: about 20 minutes, with a steep uphill walk.
📏 Route length: from 10 to 30 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: 50 lines.
☀️ Best season: from spring to autumn.
📝 Note: the crag hosts well-known local classics such as Occhi (7c), a beautiful and intense line.
⭐ Why go: to climb on excellent rock in a compact setting, with technical and rewarding routes.
San Bodo is a great choice for those who value quality movement and are looking for an authentic crag, away from trends and closer to the genuine spirit of Dolomite climbing.
Falesie di Erto e Erto No Big
The crags of Erto are not located in the Cortina area, but they represent a historic milestone in North-East Italian climbing and have had a strong influence on the development of climbing in the Belluno region. For this reason, they fully deserve a place in this list of the best crags within reach of Cortina d’Ampezzo.
Erto is best known for its large number of hard and very hard routes, with many lines ranging from 8a to 8c+. Big overhangs, sustained climbing and a physical style on edges, slopers and polished holds have made it a reference point for motivated climbers with a solid level.
Alongside the more demanding historic sectors, there is also Erto No Big, a more accessible area offering many easy and intermediate routes. This makes the crag suitable also for climbers of different levels or for those who want to experience the area without immediately committing to the hardest lines.
Another major advantage of Erto is the possibility to climb even in unsettled weather. The large overhangs allow climbing during rain in several main sectors, while the No Big sector is less protected.
📍 Access From Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow the S.S. 51 Alemagna road south towards Longarone (about 49 km).From there, take the S.S. 251 towards the Vajont dam. After passing the dam, the crag is clearly visible on the left.
Approximate driving time from Cortina: about 50 minutes.
🧗 Style: large overhangs, vertical walls, edges, slopers, endurance and strength.
🎯 Level: famous for its hard routes; grades range from 5a (in the No Big sector) up to 8c+.
👶 Beginners: yes, in the No Big sector, with many easier routes.
🚶 Approach: extremely convenient, about 1 minute.
📏 Route length: from 10 to 40 metres.
🪢 Number of routes: more than 160 lines.
🌧️ If it rains: excellent option; many sectors remain climbable, while No Big is less sheltered.
📅 Best season: year-round; in summer it is better to avoid very hot days, when friction drops significantly.
Erto is an iconic crag: demanding, historic and still very relevant today. Those looking for hard routes will find plenty to test themselves on, while the No Big sector offers a more accessible entry point into one of the landmark areas of Italian climbing.
