Tofana di Mezzo, central pillar
In the summers of 2002 and 2003 the Scoiattoli Luigi Majoni and Davide Gaspari established a difficult and beautiful route up the East Face of the Tofana di Mezzo.
The route isn’t well-known and ascends splendid limestone slabs and the overhangs up the mountain’s central spur.
Due to the demanding nature of the climbing the first ascentionists had to resort to aid, and the route was named in memory of the deceased Scoiattolo Beniamino Franceschi “Mescolin”. In summer 2010 the route was freed by Ruggero Zardini, accompanied by his friend Cristian Casanova.
GETTING THERE
Starting point: Cortina
The easiest way is to take the cable car “Freccia nel cielo” and reach the top of Tofana di Mezzo.
Descend the via ferrata and walk on a well marked ledge to the start of the route.
DIFFICULTY
7c
FACE
East
ROUTE
P1: 7b, 20m
P2: 6c, 50m
P3: 7a, 40m
P4: 7a, 20m
P5: 7c, 40m
P6: 7c, 50m
P7: 6b+, 35m
P8: 6c, 35m
DESCENT
Abseil down the route or, if you’re quick, take the cable car.
GEAR
12 quickdraws, two 60m ropes, friends (from Metolius micro to the red Black Diamond Camalot).
