Sport climbing on Lagazuoi Piccolo

A crag with easy single pitches for beginners

In the early 2000s, the mountain guides of Cortina sought to identify a rocky wall where they could set up some single-pitch routes that weren’t too difficult, and suitable even for less experienced climbers.
In Cortina, there are numerous cliffs, but unfortunately, those suitable for beginners are few. Among these, given its proximity, I would like to mention the Sass de Stria crag.

The choice fell upon Lagazuoi Piccolo, specifically on a portion of its southern wall, located lower down and to the left (west) of the entrance to the Lagazuoi Tunnel.sport climbing lagazuoi

This is how, together with my friend and colleague Paolo Tassi, the crag came to life, and in a couple of days we established almost 20 easy and mid-grade routes.
Subsequently, during the training courses aimed at obtaining the qualification of mountain guide, some students enriched the Lagazuoi cliff by bolting another eight routes of higher difficulty (left sector).

Sport climbing Lagazuoi crag.

Sport climbing Lagazuoi

Getting there – The crag is located on the South Face of Piccolo Lagazuoi in the Fanis mountain range, known above all for the incredible First World War trench warfare fought out here between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops and, in more recent times, the open-air museum dedicated to the Great War. To reach the crag park the car at Passo Falzarego and walk along path no. 402 following signs for the Galleria del Lagazuoi, then turn off at the fork, signposted for the crag.

Approach time – 25 minutes. sport climbing lagazuoi

Best time of year – From May to October. Given the altitude of 2300m, summer is certainly the best time of year, even if climbing is possible in on clear winter days since the crag faces south.

The climbing – Vertical face climbing with plenty of holds.

Orientation – South

Gear – A helmet is highly recommended. The ledge system located above the crag is used by the many hikers who explore the Galleria del Lagazuoi and the possibility of falling rocks must be bear in mind.

Height – From 15 meters to 30 meters

Grades – 4a – 7b (mostly 5b)

Suitable for beginners – Yes

Number of routes – >30

sport climbing lagazuoi


IMPORTANT UPDATE – NEW PITCHES

Sport climbing Lagazuoi.

During the year 2017, new routes were established on a wall further to the left (west) of the cliff.
The difficulties of the routes in this sector are markedly higher compared to those of the classic sector.

WARNING: in this sector, a minimum of a 70-meter rope is required, but for some routes, an 80-meter rope is necessary.

The new sector is located further to the left (west) of the cable car wires. To reach it, one must walk along the Kaiserjager trail and then leave it to approach the wall following traces of a path. The grades of the routes are written on the wall at the beginning of each route.



Enrico Maioni Mountain Guide Dolomiti

Enrico Maioni

Certified Mountain Guide, with a wide know-how of the Dolomiti.
I was born in the heart of the Dolomites, where I live and work to this day.
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