Spigolo cugini: a little-known route on the west face of Federa Campanile
In the heart of the Croda da Lago group, among the striking towers and wild walls that characterize this corner of the Dolomites, hides a beautiful climbing route that few people know about: Spigolo cugini (Cousins Edge), a route opened in 2016 by “Scoiattoli” Mirco Michielli and his cousin Samuele Hirschstein, on the west face of the Campanile del Federa.
Although several years have passed since its opening, this elegant line has remained largely unknown. I could not find any information online, yet the trail is interesting, well-equipped, and unfolds in a spectacular environment. It is worth rediscovering.
Access and approach
The walking approach takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes.
From Cortina by car along the road leading to the Giau Pass. Park about 50 meters beyond the Giau Wall (sign “Giau Wall” on the state highway), on a lay-by at the side of the road.
From here, go down a path on the meadow, then climb back into the forest to the base of the Marcella Tower.
Continue into the gully to a fork, from which the west face of the Federa Bell Tower can be glimpsed.
You then traverse the meadows slightly uphill, crossing the path that climbs along Val Formin. Finally ascending for about 200 meters on scree, you reach the route’s attack, located about 15 meters to the right of the edge, near a yellow niche. A first visible bolt at 5-6 meters helps to identify it.
The route: Spigolo cugini
The route of Spigolo cugini is about 270 meters long, divided into seven lengths, on excellent rock except for one short section. The pegging is in bolts, present at key points, but never abundant: a couple of medium-sized friends can come in handy.
- L1 – 40 m, V/6a, 4 bolts
Climb straight up for 20 meters, then move slightly left and then right to a dihedral, which you pass externally on the right to the belay. - L2 – 30 m, 6b/6c+ (A0), 6 bolts
Aim for a large black horn by exploiting cracks and notches, then traverse a little left on the slab. Then tackle a short overhang on somewhat crumbly yellow rock to the belay on the right. - L3 – 30 m, IV/V, one step 6a, 3 bolts
Traverse right, then overhang well gripped and climb left. - L4 – 45 m, IV/V, 3 bolts
Nice slab to follow, keeping to the left. - L5 – 50 m, IV/V, 4 bolts
Slab on the right of the edge for 30 m, then a chimney that you climb up on the left to a ledge. - L6 – 35 m, 6a, 5 spit
Technical slab, then a cracked dihedral of excellent quality. - L7 – 35 m, V/VI, 4 bolts + intermediate belay.
The last length is in common with the Rabbit’s Roar route, climb right and then straight up the chimney.
Descent
The descent is by abseiling along the ascent route. Two 60-meter ropes are required. The belays are equipped for rappelling.
Final considerations
Spigolo cugini is a pleasant, logical, and varied route, alternating between athletic passages and more technical sections, with an authentic and little-visited dolomite environment. Modern bolting and the possibility of integration make the route accessible to roped parties with good experience on this kind of terrain.
For those who want to discover an original line away from the best-known routes and experience climbing immersed in the wild beauty of the Croda da Lago, Spigolo Cugini at Campanile Federa is undoubtedly a proposal not to be underestimated.
