Rockfall on the Spigolo Jori

Rockfall on the Spigolo Jori: collapse on Punta Fiames

A few nights ago (October 4, 2024), a rockfall affected the Spigolo Jori, a classic Grade V climbing route on Punta Fiames. The collapse hit the middle ledge, which climbers use to approach the route. While there’s still no detailed information about the extent of the damage or its impact on the climb, climbers should monitor it.

What does this mean for the route?

It’s unclear what the full impact of the rockfall will be on the Spigolo Jori route, but it’s confirmed that the collapse has affected part of the middle ledge, which is key for the approach. The first climbers to return to the route will have to assess the overall condition of the climb.
With summer now over and worsening weather conditions, it’s unlikely that anyone will attempt the route this year. This is probably for the best, as rain and snow over the coming months will help clear out loose debris from the collapse.

Indeed, the rockfall has also affected the final part of the Calvario, the nickname locals give the challenging approach path to the Punta Fiames routes.

This incident highlights the importance of constantly checking the conditions of the rock faces before embarking on a climb, especially on routes exposed to natural phenomena like this.

Rockfall on the Spigolo Jori: a common occurrence in the Dolomites

The rockfall on the Spigolo Jori reminds us that rockfalls are not uncommon in the Dolomites—they are part of the natural cycle of erosion and rock formation. However, climate change is increasing the frequency and intensity of these events. Warmer temperatures speed up freeze-thaw cycles, which weaken rock and cause collapses. Heavy rainfall, which has become more frequent in recent years, also contributes to the instability of these rock faces.

Dolomites and climate change: a changing landscape

The Dolomites, with their breathtaking beauty, are becoming more vulnerable to the impacts of climate change.

In recent years, rising temperatures and changing weather patterns have accelerated erosion and increased the frequency of rockfalls. This affects many beloved climbing routes, requiring climbers to approach the mountains more cautiously and awarely.

Rockfalls like the one on the Spigolo Jori remind us that these mountains are constantly changing despite their grandeur and beauty.

Climbing in the Dolomites is not just about the sport but also about dealing with a dynamic and unpredictable natural environment.

Thoughts on safety

The rockfall on the Spigolo Jori is a good opportunity to reflect on mountain safety. Conditions can change unexpectedly, especially on well-known, historic routes like this one. It’s essential to approach these climbs with respect and awareness, stay updated on the latest conditions, and listen to local experts’ advice.

In the end, events like this are part of life in the Dolomites, but they also remind us never to underestimate the risks associated with mountain environments.

Before and after the rockfall on the Spigolo Jori

Accompanying this article are images showing the area before and after the rockfall. These images give a clear view of the affected zone and highlight the collapse’s visible impact. Once again, we see how the mountains are alive and constantly evolving.

Jori Rockfall Update

Yesterday, November 1st, I climbed the Strobel via Ferrata on Fiames and got a closer look at the extent of the rockfall. The collapse did not directly affect the first pitch, meaning the section that starts from the ledge along the ridge. Here is a photo of the rockfall taken from the via ferrata.

As shown in the images below, however, a significant part of the pillar has fallen, with the belay station for the first pitch located at its top.

The ledge appears only slightly damaged, and reaching the start of the route doesn’t seem to present any particular difficulties.
However, the remaining part of the pillar shows some apparent cracks. Some reports suggest stopping at the top of the pillar, a pitch of about thirty meters. However, it is possible, and I would say advisable, to do a long pitch of about 180 feet to the yellow roof and stop there on the edge.