Tofana di Rozes, Rock & Roll on the south face
Rock & Roll is the name given by Aldo Da Vià and Ruggero Zardini to the route opened in August 2020 on the south face of Tofana di Rozes. It is a challenging and decidedly non-plaisir route. The route opened by the two “Squirrels” rises above the Tofana Grotto.
For those unfamiliar with climbing terms, in the climbing world, “plaisir climbing” refers to multi-pitch routes characterized by closely spaced fixed bolts and a relatively low difficulty level. The objective of these routes is to minimize the psychological aspect and associated risks, focusing solely on the pure fun and pleasure of climbing.
Until now, only a few people were aware of this ascent, as no information has been published online. I asked my friend Aldo for details and some photos, which he kindly provided for me to write these lines.
I want to emphasize that Rock & Roll is a challenging route, especially from a psychological perspective. Fixed protections are not abundant. To enjoy Rock and Roll, it’s best to be proficient at onsighting 7a (French grading) and skilled in using camming devices.
The rock is generally good, but remember, we are in the Dolomites. Until the route has been repeated several times, you should pay attention to some sections of rock that still need cleaning.
Access
From the Dibona Refuge, accessible by car, follow trail number 442 towards the south face of Rozes. Take the trail and the subsequent via ferrata that lead to the Tofana Grotto.
Rock and Roll Route Description
L1 – 5c. Start in the chimney on the right side of the cave (2 belay anchors). After about ten meters, turn right and bypass a slight overhang. Ascend vertically until reaching the belay anchor.
30 meters, 1 bolt.
L2 – 6b. From the belay anchor, turn right aiming for a small crack on black rock with a slight overhang. Climb it and continue vertically on non-mandatory terrain, first slightly to the right, then slightly to the left, until reaching the belay anchor.
55 meters, 4 bolts.
L3 – 6c+. From the belay anchor, turn right to reach the first bolt. From here, climb a vertical wall and then head left towards another bolt on a ledge. Proceed to overcome the overhanging sections, followed by a belay anchor on a small terrace.
30 meters, 2 bolts + 2 pitons.
L4 – 6c+. Climb the wall above the belay anchor until reaching a ledge, then bypass the overhang above through a ramp on the left and belay below the overhanging sections.
25 meters, 1 bolt.
L5 – 7a. Climb to the left to surpass the overhanging band. From here, ascend a vertical wall and then traverse decisively to the right towards the evident dihedral, which is climbed up to the belay anchor.
35 meters, 4 bolts.
L6 – 7a. Overcome easy rock jumps diagonally to the right, ending up below an evident gray/black streak that is climbed entirely up to the belay anchor. This is where Rock & Roll ends.
55 meters, 4 bolts.
Note: All belay anchors are equipped with bolts (spit).
Descent
Rappel down the route. From the belay anchor at L5, rappel directly to the belay anchor at L3, paying attention to use a specific bolt placed in the overhanging band.
