The new Via Zoe, a bolted route on Lastoni di Formin
New “modern” route first ascended by untiring Massimo Da Pozzo “Mox” on the Lastoni di Formin. Due to the poor weather conditions the route was ascended in three pushes with three different partners, namely Romanin Ivan, Serafini Danilo and Bruno Sartorelli.
The eight pitches climb up solid rock and the crux pitches are pure stamina testpieces. The route is dedicated to Massimo’s daughter Zoe and starts a few meters to the right of his other creation, Spiderman.
Passo Giau is reached easily either from Cortina via the SS48 and SS638, or from Caprile for those coming from the Agordino.
Approach this climb by driving down from Passo Giau towards Cortina, parking the car after some hairpin bends and following the obvious path no. 436 towards the Forcella Giau. After the forest the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that come down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to reach the base of the wall. Allow about an hour for the walk-in.
P1: 6b – 35m
P2: 7b – 50m
P3: 6b – 35m
P4: III – 15m
P5: 7b – 35m
P6: 7a – 40m
P7: 6b – 50m
P8: 7a – 40m
DESCENT from the new via zoe
Either abseil down the route or reach the Formin col on foot from Croda da Lago then follow the path south and traverse right beneath the walls to Forcella Giau to join up with the access path.
The route is protected by bolts byt a set of mid-size camming devices may be found useful.
Pro Mountain Guide, born and raised in Cortina d’Ampezzo, with a wide know-how of the Dolomiti and years of experience in the mountains. This is my blog. Do you want to receive my posts by email? Subscribe to the newsletter!