Francesca on Col dei Bos, new route!
The mountain guide Paolo da Pozzo, together with Giuseppe Ghedina, opened the new Francesca route on the southeast face of Col dei Bos in May.
The climb occurs on beautiful vertical slabs of excellent gray-black rock, except for some sections of yellow rock near the top. The Francesca route covers an elevation gain of about 250 meters with continuous difficulty of 6b and one 6c+ pitch. The route is fully equipped with bolts, but remember that the protection points are not very close, with an average distance of five to six meters between the bolts. If you want to enjoy the climb, you need to be proficient at 6c.
The main climbing line follows a clear gray-black streak on the wall. Paolo dedicated the Francesca route to his little daughter.
250m up excellent rock, with difficulties usually in the region of 6b and one 6c/6c+ pitch. Despite being protected by bolts, climbers must nevertheless be capable of quickly climbing 6c.
GETTING THERE
From Cortina, take the SS48 towards Passo Falzarego and park at “Ra Nona”.
ACCESS
Walk up path #412, just before the tunnel head left, following a steep track to the gully to the right of the Col di Bos arete breached by Via Alverà-Menardi. Scramble up the steep slope to reach the obvious start.
GEAR
The route is fully equipped with bolts. The protection points are not very close (5-6 meters apart). In bad weather, it is possible to rappel down the route with a 70-meter rope.
DESCENT
Descend to the col at Col di Bos, then continue along path # 402.
