Sass de Stria Cliff

Easy sport climbing at Sass de Stria cliff: exploring the perfect spots for novice climbers

The Sass de Stria cliff, a towering peak near the Falzarego Pass, offers an ideal setting for enthusiasts of easy sport climbing. Situated amidst the breathtaking Dolomites, this cliff presents a perfect opportunity for climbers seeking accessible routes on compact rock, characterized by close bolting and captivating landscapes.

Recently, I revisited the post about the Lagazuoi crag, and given its proximity to the Sass de Stria cliff, I felt compelled to share insights about this location, despite its already established presence online.

Sass de Stria (8127 feet) stands as a testament to both natural beauty and historical significance. Indeed, during World War I, this mountain witnessed fierce battles between Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces, leaving behind visible remnants of trenches and military fortifications that still dot its landscape.

The easy sport climbing area of Sass de Stria is located at the base of the mountain, on the east side. In the Cortina d’Ampezzo area, there are not many cliffs suitable for beginners. Among the crags suitable for novices, I highlight the Lagazuoi Cliff, the Crepo Longo Cliff, the Averau Cliff, and the Landro Cliff.
But among the most popular area for easy sport climbing is the Sass de Stria crag, which I will now describe in detail.

General information

At the base of the east wall of Sass de Stria, there is a very interesting rocky band, characterized by slabs rich in holds and not very steep, perfect for beginners, children, and also for climbing courses. For a long time, the military has frequented this cliff, but in the past, there were only a few routes equipped by them on the wall. However, in September 1996, thanks to the work of the students of the “1st interregional course for aspiring mountain guides,” numerous new single pitches were created. The routes are equipped in a modern and safe manner, with close bolting and interesting lines. Thus was born the Sass de Stria cliff, one of the few, if not the only one in Italy, cliffs with low difficulties.

Each belay is equipped with a chain with a carabiner or rappel ring, while the pitches are protected with 10 mm bolts or resin-coated bolts. A 60-meter rope is more than enough.

Summer reigns as the optimal season for climbing, as the wall, perched at an altitude exceeding 2,000 meters above sea level, basks in favorable weather conditions. As the afternoon sun recedes, the wall transitions into a shaded haven for climbers. After winter, snow lingers for a long time at the base of the Sass de Stria cliff, so climbing in spring is not advisable.

How to get there

Accessing the Sass de Stria cliff requires a journey to the Falzarego Pass, easily reachable from Cortina d’Ampezzo, Livinallongo, or Caprile.

From the Pass, head towards the nearby Valparola Pass until you find a parking lot on the left, near a large boulder. From there, a downhill path leads to the cliff, clearly visible from the road.

Those coming from Val Badia must head towards the Falzarego Pass. Once at the Museum of the Great War, go past it and continue until you reach the large boulder mentioned above.


Easy sport climbing routes at Sass de Stria

1) S.N. – 4a
2) Friends – 4a
3) Nuts – 4a
4) Osso di banana – 5a
5) Black rain – 5a-4c
6) Totem – 5b
7) Blowing in the wind – 5c
8) BoLzano – 4b
9 ) Willy coyote – 5a
10) Bip Bip – 5b
11) Nurajev – 5a
12) Incas – 4b
13) Bilanciamento – 4a
14) Super trombetta – 6a
15) Mano morta – 4b
16) Welcome in padania – 4a
17) Gatto vecio – 5a
18) Semi di papavero – 5b
19) Non stringere – 5b-nl
20) Pamir – 5b
21) Sfigoi – 6a
22) Sacripante – 5b
23) Progressione fondamentale – 5b
24) Son cotto – 6a-5c
25) Rioby – 6a
26) Citrullina – 5b
27) Nuvolari – 4a
28) No limits – 7b (8 metri – sul masso)


History and notes on Sass de Stria

During World War I, Sass de Stria was an important strategic point in the Austro-Hungarian defense line. The trenches, tunnels, and Austro-Hungarian military positions have been restored and can be visited by hikers thanks to a trail that leads from Valparola Pass to the summit of Sass de Stria. The route to the summit follows an old war path and includes ladders and steel cables in some places but does not present any technical difficulties.

Climbing: on the sharp southeast edge of the mountain, the Cobertaldo-Pezzotti route develops. This route, also known as the “Edge of Sass de Stria,” is well-known and repeated. It includes 7-8 pitches and has difficulties of 5.6.

It was my first climb; I was only 11 years old, and the legendary Don Claudio took me up there. He died on December 2nd, 2009, buried by an avalanche during a ski mountaineering excursion on Monte Pore, on a full moon night.

Conclusion

In essence, Sass de Stria cliff stands as a beacon for easy sport climbing enthusiasts, offering an unparalleled blend of natural beauty, historical intrigue, and accessible routes amidst the majestic Dolomites.


Enrico Maioni Mountain Guide Dolomiti

Enrico Maioni

Certified Mountain Guide, with a wide know-how of the Dolomiti.
I was born in the heart of the Dolomites, where I live and work to this day.
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