Climbing at Rio Gere

Rio Gere cliff offers climbing opportunities in Cortina d’Ampezzo.

Long pitches and endurance are the characteristics of the Rio Gere cliff. This beautiful cliff was initially equipped in the early 1990s by Diego Ghedina, also known as “Tomasc,” who saw the potential for opening a new climbing area in the Ampezzo territory.

Diego later abandoned this project, having discovered another interesting wall: the “Crepe de Oucera basse“, which he studied and equipped from the first to the last bolt, with constant and passionate dedication. Today, the Crepe Basse crag is one of the most frequented in Ampezzo.

About twenty years later, two other tireless bolters decided to reassess the area: Mox (Massimo Da Pozzo) and Bruno Sartorelli, who refurbished the old routes established by “Tomasc.”

In addition to this, the two Squirrels opened numerous new climbing lines, with a great prevalence of long and overhanging pitches.

Thanks to them, Cortina now boasts, in addition to many other cliffs, another gym where training is assured: the Rio Gere cliff!

Rio Gere Crag: General information

The Rio Gere cliff is located at an altitude of 1,680 meters and faces northeast. It’s the ideal spot for climbing on hot days, as the walls remain exposed to the sun for only a few hours, allowing climbing in the shade from mid-morning onwards. Not far from the walls flows the “Ru de ra cioures” (the Goat’s Torrent), which provides refreshment and an opportunity to replenish water supplies.

Nestled in the woods, beautiful pitches develop on this massive block of dolomite, mostly overhanging. Athletic and endurance climbing, on pockets and edges, on very solid rock (with a couple of exceptions), with numerous pitches up to 40 meters long.

The Rio Gere cliff remains relatively dry even after long periods of rain, but it’s not feasible to climb during rainy days. The base of the wall has a fairly steep slope and requires particular caution if we bring children with us.

How to Get There

km, you’ll encounter a junction on the left indicating the agriturismo “Brite de Larieto.” On the opposite side, a wide area allows parking. Descend along a clear road, partly paved, until reaching the Bigontina stream. Now, you need to cross the stream. By observing, you’ll notice, on the other bank, a signboard fixed to a tree. Once you reach the signboard, instead of following the directions for Mandres–Fraina, head in the opposite direction. A little further on, another signboard on a tree confirms that you are on the right track. Following the path, you’ll finally arrive at the Rio Gere cliff (15 minutes from the parking area).



The Routes

Left Sector
01 – California Kid – 7a 30m
02 – 4 punti di sutura – 7b 30m
03 – Senza nome (pertenza in comune con 4 punti di sutura e poi a destra) – 6c 25m
04 – Ciapa e spera – 6c+ 35m
05 – Roulette Russa – 7b 40m
06 – Senza nome – 7a 35m
07 – Yellow power – 7c+ 35m
08 – Meglio il taccone del buco – 7b+ 35m
09 – Fiona – 7a 35m
10 – Shrek – 6b 35m
11 – Che Pizza – 7b 35m
12 – Beata gioventù – 7b 35m
13 – ll peso non dorme – 7a 35m
14 – Il salto della pulce – 7a 35m
15 – Che meraviglia – 7a+ 38m
16 – Simba – 7b+ 35m
17 – Spigolo magico – 8a 40m
18 – Scherzi a parte – 7c+ 40m

Central sector
19 – San Diego – 6b 20m
19+ Da zanca a zanca (da ultimo spit di San Diego salire a sinistra – 7b 40m
20 – Chi non ha testa ha gambe (prima catena) – 6a 20m
20+ Chi non ha testa ha gambe allungata – 7b+ 40m
21 – 100% natural holes (prima catena) – 6c+ 24m
21+ – 100% natural holes (allungata) – 7b 35m
22 – DNA falà (prima catena) – 6b+ 25m
22+ DNA falà (allungata) – 7a 40m

Right Sector
23 – Che placca porca vacca – 7b 20m
24 – Ritorno alle origini – 6c 20m

Note
About 200 meters from the parking area, on the other side of the road, you’ll find the excellent Agriturismo “El Brite de Larieto,” where you can replenish lost fluids 🙂


Enrico Maioni Mountain Guide Dolomiti

Enrico Maioni

Certified Mountain Guide, with a wide know-how of the Dolomiti.
I was born in the heart of the Dolomites, where I live and work to this day.
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