Caterina Route on Barancio Tower
The Caterina climbing route on Barancio Tower was first ascended in August 2024 by Giordano Riello, an Italian entrepreneur and mountain enthusiast, alongside Massimo Da Pozzo. Giordano dedicated this route to his daughter Caterina. This gesture reflects his love for the mountains and the hope that she, too, may develop a passion for these extraordinary peaks. The route has quickly gained attention and is on track to becoming a classic in the area, known for its solid rock and well-protected pitches.
Nestled in the heart of the Dolomites, the Caterina climbing route on Barancio Tower stands as a thrilling yet approachable climb that attracts climbers worldwide. This hidden gem, situated near Cortina d’Ampezzo, offers a unique combination of technical challenges and rewarding experiences, making it an unmissable climb for enthusiasts.
What makes the Caterina route special?
The route is approximately 250 meters long, with difficulties generally ranging around grades 5.7 to 5.8 (see: rock climbing grades). It offers a balanced mix of slab climbing and exposed sections that demand technique and mental focus. Despite its moderate difficulty, the route provides an alpine atmosphere that rivals more challenging climbs in the Dolomites.
One of the highlights of climbing the Caterina climbing route is its location along the north face of Barancio Tower. Its northern orientation makes it ideal for hot summer days, providing cooler conditions when the south-facing walls are too warm. Each belay station presents an opportunity to pause and appreciate the rugged beauty of the surrounding Dolomites, reinforcing why the area is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Details of the Caterina Route on Barancio Tower
The Caterina Route spans 125 meters, divided into five pitches, and starts to the right of the classic Dibona – Appollonio route on the Torre del Barancio. With difficulties reaching a maximum of 5.8, this route offers an enjoyable experience, perfect for those seeking climbing on solid rock with excellent holds.
Difficulty and development of the route on the Torre del Barancio:
- First pitch: 6 bolts, 30 meters, 5.8 (belay with chain)
- Second pitch: 4 bolts, 20 meters, 5.7 (belay with chain)
- Third pitch: 4 bolts, 40 meters, 5.4 (belay with chain)
- Fourth pitch: 3 bolts, 20 meters, 5.6 (belay with ring)
- Fifth pitch: 3 bolts, 15 meters, 5.7 (belay with ring)
Practical tips for climbers
- Best Season: The Caterina climbing route is ideal during the hot summer days, particularly in July and August, when the temperatures soar. Unlike the classic south-facing routes of Cinque Torri, such as the historic Miriam route, which can become uncomfortably hot for climbing, the Caterina route offers a more pleasant experience even in the heat, thanks to its more favorable conditions.
- Gear: A standard rack with cams and nuts and a 60-meter rope is sufficient. Helmets are strongly recommended due to occasional loose rocks.
- Approach and Descent: The approach takes about 15 minutes from the Rifugio Scoiattoli or Cinque Torri, following an easy, well-marked path. The descent follows the opposite side, to the south, using double rope abseils. From there, an obvious trail leads back to the starting point.
Why choose the Caterina Route on Barancio Tower?
The Caterina climbing route offers the perfect balance for those looking to experience classic Dolomite climbing without venturing into extreme difficulty. Its rich history, accessible grade, and unique setting make it a rewarding climb that captures the essence of the Dolomites.
Whether you’re a seasoned climber or looking to explore new routes, the Caterina climbing route promises an unforgettable adventure that will leave you yearning for more days on the rock.
Another climbing route on Lagazuoi
Giordano Riello and Massimo Da Pozzo are no strangers to such feats. In August 2023, with Perla Riello (Giordano’s sister) and Michele Titton, a mountain guide like Mox, they opened another beautiful route on Lagazuoi: the “Valerio Giordano.” For more details about this route, you can check the link here.
If you’re a climbing enthusiast or love discovering new routes, the Torre del Barancio awaits you with this new alpine opportunity.
Learn more about the Cinque Torri and book an experience with a local mountain guide to make the most of this new adventure!
