The Caprioli Route
A bolted route, the Caprioli Route, was opened in autumn 2021 by Simone Corte Pause “Scossa,” a member of the Caprioli Climbing Group, and my beloved niece, Eleonora Colli.
The first four pitches were established from the bottom, while for the last two pitches, they chose to rappel from above to find better rock quality and a more enjoyable line.
The climbing
This is a modern route equipped with bolts. The spacing between the protection points is appropriate for the difficulty level. The view is fantastic, ranging from the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo to the Cadini di Misurina and the majestic Sorapiss. At a lower level, you can admire Misurina and its lovely lake.
General Access
If you want to climb the Caprioli Route, you need to reach Misurina first. The most neighbouring towns to this location are Cortina d’Ampezzo, Auronzo and Dobbiaco.
To reach Misurina from Cortina, you must cross Passo Tre Croci via SR 48. From Auronzo, you also need to take SR 48.
If you start from Dobbiaco, follow SS 51 towards Alemagna, then turn left at Carbonin towards 48 bis.
Approach to the Caprioli Route
The wall of Monte Popena Basso is clearly visible from Misurina. The route mainly follows the area of yellow rock. To approach the wall, take trail 224a, which starts behind the Grand Hotel Misurina.
The path begins in the woods and then zigzags up through the shrubs.
The last steeper part ascends a gravelly gully. While climbing this final slope, you can’t overlook the silhouette of Guglia Giuliana, an elegant tower first ascended by Emilio Comici and his companions in 1934. The spire is dedicated to the memory of Giuliana Massaro, a young mountaineer who lost her life here.
Once you gain the base of the wall, turn left, avoiding continuing straight along the trail, which will be used for the descent.
The start of the Caprioli Route is approximately 50m to the right of Diedro Mazzorana, a classic route on Popena Basso. The starting point is marked by a sling on the rock.
Time needed: Approximately 45 minutes from Misurina.
Route Description
L1. The first short pitch of the Caprioli Route is unbolted, but there is the option to use a friend. The belay station is on top of an evident pillar.
4b – 10 meters.
L2. Climb up to the roof, exit the roof using good holds, then traverse delicately to the left to return slightly to the right at the belay.
5.11d — 25 meters — 8 bolts.
L3. Start in a crack and then traverse delicately to the right. Belay below the roof.
5.12b – 18 meters – 4 bolts.
L4. Climb up until reaching below the roof, then traverse to the left. From there, more athletic moves lead to the belay.
5.11d — 18 meters — 5 bolts.
L5. The pitch ascends obliquely to the left, searching for the best rock.
5.10b — 15 meters — 3 bolts.
L6. The last pitch also follows a oblique line, always seeking the soundest rock.
5.10c — 32 meters — 7 bolts.
Descent
The descent from the Caprioli Route is very convenient. You can choose to descend on foot along the trail, walking in a northerly direction, or rappel down the route. In the latter case, rappel rings are available at the belay stations. From the summit, two diagonal rappels are required to reach the fourth belay station, which is at the end of the 5.11d pitch (L4). From there, two additional rappels lead to the base of the wall. To rappel down, two ropes or an 80m rope are necessary.
Gear needed for the Caprioli Route
10 quickdraws.
Optional: two cams, BD1 and BD2.
Related post:
A pleasant hike on Popena Basso.
