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Classic multi-pitch routes

classic dolomites climbs

Lots of people who comes to the Dolomites are searching for trad, sport climbing and via ferrata guidebooks. I recommend this book to English speaking climbers: “The Dolomites Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata”, published by Rockfax.
For the first time a guidebook covers all three and is undoubtedly a good choice for people who want to discover the endless climbing variety that the Dolomites has to offer. Read more about the guidebook here.

Recommended classic Dolomites climbs in the area of Cortina d’Ampezzo

Below there is a list of the most popular (and beautiful) climbs in the area of Cortina d’Ampezzo. For the trad routes the grades are the UIAA grades, which go from I to XII and for aid climbing, grades from A0 to A4 are used. Click here for the rock climbing grades conversion.

Cinque Torri

VIA MIRIAM classic dolomites climbs
A. and G.Dimai, A.Gaspari, Miriam O’Brien 1927
The Miriam is a classic, and it let you take confidence with the Dolomite rock. Due to thousand of climbers climbed this route the rock is polished, anyway I think climb this route is worthwhile. The Cinque Torri are, by definition, everyone’s “gym”: for alpinists and sport climbers, for beginners to experts alike.


Cima Cason di Formin

DIEDRO DALLAGO
F. Dallago e D. Costantini 1970

This route climbs a peak located in wild and very attractive site, and it is never too crowded, unlike the most famous climbs of the Dolomites.

Difficulty: IV
Access: hours 1.30
Descent: hour 2
Very good rock classic dolomites climbs
Face: north-west
Best time: June-September
Gear: a set of wires, friends and plenty of kevlar threads.
Note: the only difficult section (V) on the first pitch can be avoided by starting 20m to the left and climbing up the series of small ledges directly to the first stance.

Col dei Bòs

VIA ALVERÁ (spigolo sud)
S. Alverà e L. Menardi 1947

It is renowned for its beauty and excellent rock, and it too can be climbed early and late in the climbing season. The harder pitches are well-protected.

Difficulty: IV
Lenght: 360 m
Access: hours 0.40
Descent: hours 1
Very good rock
Face: south
Best time: May-October
Gear: a set of wires, friends and kevlar threads.
Note: two technical steps.

Torre Grande di Falzarego

VIA DIBONA
I. and A.Dibona, De Stefani 1934

The first ascent of this route was by Angelo Dibona, symbol of the Cortina mountain guides. Not crowded like the other routess on the Falzarego’s towers. classic dolomites climbs

Difficulty: IV and V
Lenght: 300 m
Access: hours 0.30
Descent: 1 rappel + hours 0.30 on easy rocks + 0.20 to the “Restaurant Da Strobel”.
Very good rock
Face: south
Best time: May-October
Gear: a set of wires and kevlar threads.
Note: the two last pitches are a surprise.

Punta Fiames

SPIGOLO JORI
Jori and Kathe Bròske 1909

This is one of the most interesting and popular climbs in the vicinity of Cortina. It tackles the cracklines up the Punta Fiames’ obvious, airy arête. The view opens onto the Ampezzo valley is without equal.

Difficulty: V
Lenght: 500 m
Access: hours 1.15
Descent: hours 1.30
Good rock
Face: south
Best time: May-October
Gear: a set of wires, friends (medium-large size) and kevlar threads.
Note: really nice edge climb.

Tofana di Ròzes

PRIMO SPIGOLO classic dolomites climbs
A. Alverà and U. Pompanin 1946

An extremely popular mid-grade route. It initially follows the large corner at the base of the arête, then continues up slightly to the left of the arête, before moving right to avoid the roofs. This traverse and corner above constitute the crux. classic dolomites climbs

Difficulty: IV and V, one steep V+
Lenght: 430 m
Access: hours 0.40
Descent: hour 1.30
Good rock
Face: south
Best time: June-October
Gear: a set of wires, friends and kevlar threads.
Note: start early morning, often the route is crowded. The first pitch is difficult, too, but can be avoided by climbing an easier variation to the left.

Tofana di Ròzes

SOUTH FACE (via “classica”)
A. Dimai, A. Verzi, G. Siorpaes and R. Eotvos 1901

All the climbers who watch south wall of Rozes want climb it, at least once in their lifetime. Great route, open over a hundred years ago! Although some sections are very easy, the route is never trivial.
Do you want to read a true story?

Difficulty: IV
Lenght: 1150 m
Access: hours 1.15
Descent: hours 2
Good rock
Face: south
Best time: June-September
Gear: a set of wires, friends and kevlar threads.
Note: very long route in heart of Tofana di Ròzes. Not easy to find the right way.


PILASTRO
Via E. Costantini and R. Apollonio 1944

This is surely the most famous and popular route on this wall, thanks to its intrinsic beauty and perfect line. It is long and demanding. The two famous roofs and the often wet “schiena di mulo” chimney are to be found in the more difficult upper section, which also contains the crux. For the locals climberss, the classic of classics. classic dolomites climbs

Difficulty: VI and A0 (VII)
Lenght: 600 m
Access: hours 0.40
Descent: hour 1.30
Very good rock
Face: south
Best time: June-September
Gear: a set of wires, friends (medium size) and kevlar threads
Note: a Ettore Costantini masterpiece. Good shape required. 

Cima Scotoni

VIA LACEDELLI
L. Lacedelli, L. Ghedina and G. Lorenzi 1952

This is one of the classic outings in the Dolomites. Great intuition enabled the first ascentionists to work their way up this immense overhanging wall.

Difficulty: VI and A0 (VIII)
Lenght: 480 m
Access: hours 1.40
Descent: hours 1.45 to “Capanna Alpina”
The rock is not perfect, but the route has been cleaned by climbers
Face: south-west
Best time: July-September
Gear: a set of wires, friends and kevlar threads
Note: historical route by the “Squirrels of Cortina”. The crux is a delicate cross to the left, at the end of the fourth pitch.

Cima Piccola di Lavaredo

SPIGOLO GIALLO
E. Comici, R. Zanutti and M. Varale 1933

Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Spigolo Giallo. Few routes have such a perfect line, and few routes get quite so crowded. Known by climbers all over the world, the Yellow Edge does not need comments, just watch it.

Difficulty: VI and A0 (VI+)
Lenght: 350 m
Access: hours 0.45
Descent: hours 1.30
The rock is not perfect, but the route has been cleaned by climbers
Face: south
Best time: June-September
Gear: a set of wires, friends and kevlar threads
Note: it is best climbed out of season and preferably avoided at the weekends.

Cima Grande di Lavaredo

VIA COMICI – DIMAI
E.Comici G. and A.Dimai 1933

Via Comici is the classic example of climbing in the Dolomites. A climb of all respect, that must be climbed by only experienced climbers. In bad weather it is very hard to get off from the wall, where the chimney become real rivers of water.

Difficulty: VI and A0 (VII)
Lengh: 500 m
Access: hour 1
Descent: hours 2
The rock is not perfect, but the route has been cleaned by climbers
Face: north
Best time: June-September
Gear: a set of wires, friends and kevlar threads
Note: a real exploit of the three climbers. The first half is very demanding and should not be underestimated.
Only with dry conditions, or it could be epic 🙂

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