Mountain guides Dolomites - hikes, rock climbing and ski adventures

CRAGS IN THE AREA OF CORTINA

Listing all of the crags in the Dolomites would be an inconceivable task. Hence in this page I limit myself to mentioning the most important crags in the area where I live. Cortina d'Ampezzo is a true paradise for climbers, not just for the classic climbers looking for reaching the beautiful Dolomite peaks: sport climbers will also find in the Ampezzo valley a fantastic place to play, with the added value of the natural beauty of the locations of the numerous crags in this area. There is a lot of rock to hang on to, since there are more than 1,000 routes!

As far as indoor climbing is concerned, currently the closest indoor climbing gym is Dolomiten Arena in Sesto Pusteria, about 40 kilometers (25 miles) North of Cortina. By next November the town of Dobbiaco will have a new climbing gym, bigger than that of Sesto and closer too (30 kilometers, 19 miles).

If politicians promises are to be believed (?!), Cortina will start building its own indoor climbing gym by the end of 2011.

Index
01 - Crepe de Oucèra alti
02 – Crepe de Oucèra bassi
03 - Cinque Torri
04 – Bèco d'Ajàl
05 – Campo e Volpera
06 – Son Pouses
07 – Sasso di Stria

08 – Lagazuoi
09 – Sass Dlacia
10 – Rio Gere
11 – Landro
12 – Franchi (Landro 2)
13 – Val Rienza
14 - San Bodo
15 - Erto

1 – Crepe de Oucèra alti
From a sports climbing point of view, the Crépe de Oucèra is one of the most important crags in the Cortina area and, together with the nearby Cinque Torri, to be considered one of the most important crags in the entire eastern Dolomites.
Located at 1800m, the Crépe de Oucèra offers 70 pitches from 6a to 8a+. these are renowned for their beauty, ease of access and orientation, ensuring the crag's popularity not only in the hot summer months.
Despite the fact that the crag is quite old, the bolting is excellent and the distance between the bolts varies, according to the difficulty and characteristics of each individual pitch.
Getting there: from Cortina take the highway SS48 westwards towards passo Falzarego and turn off left at the Pocol junction onto the SS 638 towards Passo Giau. Continue for about 4 km to reach a long straight section and the Alta Via 1 path. Park here and take the rightmost path up to the crag in just 5 minutes

The climbing: the rock is solid with plenty of small weathered pockets and flakes, offering a variety of different climbing styles up the smooth vertical, slightly overhanging and extremely overhanging walls.
Approach: 10 minutes
Number of routes: > 75
Lenght of pitches: from 15m to 40m (70m rope recommended)
Difficulty: from 6a to 8a+
Suitable for beginners: no
Orientation: south
Height: 1700m /1800m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from Aprile to November
WEB: Planetmountain


2 – Crepe de Oucèra bassi
A somewhat easier alternative to the Crépe de Oucèra Alta are the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi, located a few hairpin bends lower down. Immersed in the green forest, the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi offer 80 pitches from 5a to 7c.
Getting there: from Cortina take the highway SS 48 westwards towards passo Falzarego and turn off left at the Pocol junction onto the SS 638 towards Passo Giau. Continue for about 2,8 km to reach a widening to the left wich can be used like a car park; opposite this space ther is a field and the path that take you to the crag.

The climbing: climbing is mostly on a vertical wall, but there are also some overhanging pitches.
Approach: 10 minutes
Number of routes: > 80
Lenght of pitches: from 20m to 30m
Difficulty: from 5a to 7c (mostly 6)
Suitable for beginners: no
Orientation: est
Height: 1640m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from May to November.


3 - Cinque Torri
This is definitely Cortina's most important training site. Thanks to their infinite variety of shapes and sizes, the marvellous Cinque Torri ideally represent the entire Dolomites. Although the towers can be admired from the center of Cortina, don't be deceived by their unmistakable silhouette: the characteristic profile isn't comprised of just 5 towers, but by a mass of secondary boulders, fractured towers and peaks sprinkled liberally across the entire area.
Getting there: reach the 5 Torri by car from Cortina via the SS 48 to Cianzopè, on the way to Passo Falzarego. Turn off left at km 112 towards Cianzopé - Rifugio Cinque Torri. park at the hut and then continue on foot towards the towers.
Alternatively, reach the crag by parking at Bai de Dones, and take the chairlift to Rifugio Scoiattoli.

The climbing:principal dolomite reacts in various ways to erosion by the elements depending on the rock face in question; the rock on south-est face is yellowish in colour and overhanging, square in shape with horizontal holds. This rock face dries very quickly and climbing is possible during most of the winter months. The rock on north-west face is grey in coulor and has been eroded by the rain. It is exceptionally solid and has many holes; climbing is only possible during the summer as the rock does not dry very quickly.
The climbing techniques vary according to the exposure of the rock faces.
Approach: 10/20 minutes
Number of routes: > 220
Lenght of pitches: from 10m to 35m (70m rope recommended)
Difficulty: from 3 to 8b
Suitable for beginners: yes
Orientation: all
Height: 2200m / 2300m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from May to November. In good weather, winter climbing is possible on south face of Torre Grande.


4 – Bèco d’Ajàl
The Bèco d'Ajal is a large rocky tower surrounded by a thick fir tree forest at the foot of Croda da Lago; there are more rocky towers, though smaller in size, uphill and to the west of the Bèco.
The rock faces of these towers are overhanging and irregulary shaped. As these rocks are situated in the woods and other orographic factors cause low temperatures and sometime dampness, the most suitable period for climbing would appear to be from July to September, but also a few days after the latest rain.
Considering the high degree of difficulty of this crag, the bolts are fairly distant frome one other.
Getting there: from Cortina take the highway SS48 westwards towards passo Falzarego and turn off left at the Pocol junction onto the SS638 towards Passo Giau. After approximately 1,5 km you will find a car park to your left, where the road leading to Val di Formin starts. Contonue for approximately 150 m and then turn left after crossing the Rio Costeana bridge.
After walking on a level path you will start to walk uphill to the right. Following a series of red signs you will pass through the fir tree woods and then you will see some rocks covered in rhododendros and bilberry bushes.
After approximately 35 minutes you will get to the base of a large slanting rock with a slanting peak with overhanging rock faces (sector a, b and c).

The climbing: stamina climbing on steep terrain. In the overhanging section the routes are athletic on holes.
Approach: 40 minutes
Number of routes: > 60
Lenght of pitches: from 15m to 40m (70m rope recommended)
Difficulty: from 6a to 8c (mostly 7)
Suitable for beginners: no
Orientation: all, mostly est and west
Height: 1650m / 1850m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from July to September.


5 – Campo e Volpèra
The area is commonly know as "Grotte di Volpèra" (caves of Voplèra) and sees the presence of a numerous boulders. The rocks are situated on the south-estern slope of Pocol in an area stretching from the main road SS 48 to a few hundred meters above the Campo plane. The rock is of the Cassian dolomite kind with numerous holes and scales. All the routes are single pitch, short in lenght and athletic.
Getting there: there are three main sectors in this training site: a) Volpèra alta, b) Volpèra bassa and c) Campo.
In order to reach Volpèra alta and Volpèra bassa, you are advised to park 200 meters before the Pocol tunnel, on the main road leading to Passo Falzarego. Follow the signposted downhill path number 429.
The best way to reach the Campo sector is through a village called Campo di Sotto; park near Hotel Tiziano (the hotel is closed) and then hike up a path which runs through the village in the opposite direction to that of the road leading to Lake Pianozes.

The climbing: most of the routes are short, powerful and intense. Some routes are athletic on painful pockets, while the technical vertical walls require excellent footwork.
Approach: 10/20 minutes
Number of routes: > 60
Lenght of pitches: from 8m to 20m
Difficulty: from 4a to 9a
Suitable for beginners: yes (few easy pitches)
Orientation: all, mostly est
Height: 1170m / 1330m
Climb if it rains: yes (Volpera alta)
Best time of year: from April to November.


6 – Son Pouses
La falesia si trova vicina alla strettoia che chiude a nord la conca di Cortina. Son Pouses si trova nel Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti d’Ampezzo, e l’area è molto panoramica e ricca di vegetazione rara e di fauna selvatica. In alcuni periodi dell’anno vi è il pericolo di scariche di sassi a causa del passaggio di camosci sulla bancata ghiaiosa sovrastante la parete. La palestra è situata su di un’unica parete calcarea, senza soluzione di continuità ben visibile dalla strada.
Per l’accesso si lascia l’auto poco oltre il km 111 della strada statale 51 di Alemagna in località “Tornichè” (tornante), presso il bivio per Malga Ra Stua. Si sale per circa 200 metri lungo la strada per Ra Stua e in corrispondenza di una tabella segnaletica si svolta a destra (nord-est) e si segue il ripido sentiero.
Getting there:

The climbing: Son Pouses distinguishes itself for its highly technical and delicate slab climbing. Technique is required.
Approach: 20 minutes
Number of routes: 22
Lenght of pitches: from 15m to 25m
Difficulty: from 6a to 7c (mostly 6)
Suitable for beginners: no
Orientation: south
Height: 1560m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from April to November.


7 – Sasso di Stria
The Sass di Stria, a minor peak within the Fanis group, is famous for its popular Spigolo Sud, an easy arête clearly visible from the nearby Passo Falzarego.
The base of its east face is weathered and slabby and hence ideal for beginners. Some routes were equipped long ago for the military "Alpini", but in 1996 a group of aspiring Mountain Guides bolted the entire wall, thereby creating one of the Dolomites', and Italy's, easiest crags.
Getting there: Passo Falzarego is reached easily from Cortina. Continue towards Passo Valparola to a car park on the left near a large boulder. A path leads downhill to the wall, clearly visible from the road.

The climbing: easy angled slab climbing.
Approach: 5 minutes
Number of routes: 27
Lenght of pitches: from 15m to 25m
Difficulty: dal 4a al 6a (mostly 5)
Suitable for beginners: yes
Orientation: est
Height: 2080m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from June to October.
Guidebook: Juri Chiaromonte – "Arrampicata sportiva e boulder nel sudtirolo" – Edizioni Raetia, 2007
WEB: Planetmountain


8 – Lagazuoi
The wall is on the South Face of the Piccolo Lagazuoi, a peak in the Fanis range, famous for that incredible war fought between the Austro-Hungarian and Italian armies and for its open-air "Great War" museum.
Getting there: to access the crag, park your car at the Falzarego Pass and follow trail number 402, following the signs pointing to the Lagazuoi tunnel ("Galleria del Lagazuoi"), until you reach a fork where the signs indicate the direction for the crag.
The climbing: vertical face climbing with plenty of holds.
Approach: 30 minutes
Number of routes: 26
Lenght of pitches: from 15m to 30m
Difficulty: from 5a to 7b (mostly 5)
Suitable for beginners: yes
Orientation: south
Height: 2300m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from May to October.
WEB: this site


9 – Sass Dlacia
La verticale e liscia parete ovest del Sass Dlacia, spiccatamente gialla e nera, non può non essere notata da chi percorra in automobile la strada che scende dal Passo di Valparola ad Armentarola. Nelle vicinanze della parete sono presenti alcuni grossi massi, crollati dalle rocce soprastanti, che arricchiscono le possibilità arrampicatorie dell’area. Pur essendo un po’ più lontana da Cortina (circa 26 km), rispetto alle altre palestre di questo elenco, la bellezza e il grande numero di monotiri di questa falesia non potevano non essere segnalati.
Per l’accesso, da Cortina è necessario recarsi al Passo Falzarego, salire al valico di Valparola e scendere per alcuni chilometri sul versante della Val Badia, fino al ponte sul Rio Sarè. Appena prima del ponte, sulla destra, si parcheggia nei pressi del camping “Sass Dlacia”. Ci si incammina quindi lungo il pianeggiante sentiero in direzione nord-est fino a quando questo si biforca; svoltiamo a destra (est) e, dopo un breve tratto in salita, raggiungiamo la parete principale.
Getting there:
The climbing: in the overhanging section the routes are athletic, while the technical vertical walls require excellent footwork.
Approach: 20 minutes
Number of routes: > 200
Lenght of pitches: from 15m to 35m
Difficulty: from 6a to 8a+ (mostly 6 and 7)
Suitable for beginners: yes
Orientation: west the big wall, all the others areas
Height: 1730m / 1800m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from May to October.Guidebook: Juri Chiaromonte – "Arrampicata sportiva e boulder nel sudtirolo" – Edizioni Raetia, 2007.


10 – Rio Gere
This is Cortina's newest crag (2009). In truth the first routes were bolted on this enormous outcrop at the start of the '90's by Diego Ghedina "Tomasc", a member of the local "Scoiattoli" group who realised the potential of this crag.
Ghedina soon abandoned this project however as he discovered another attractive face: the "Crepe d' Oucera bassi" which he bolted from start to finish with constant and convinced passion.
Many years have passed since then but recently two untiring Scoiattoli climbers decided to valorise the crag once more. The expert Mox (Massimo Da Pozzo) and Bruno Sartorelli sorted out the original routes and created numerous other, up to 40m long overhanging lines.
Considering the high degree of difficulty of this crag, the bolts are fairly distant frome one other.
Getting there: from Cortina follow signs east for Passo Tre Croci - Misurina. After circa 5 km a road breaks off left for the mountain hut "Brite de Larieto". Continue alont the main road for another hundred meters to reach a small layby on the right - park here. A small path leads right (SE) into the forest of larch trees and on past a river bed and then steeply to the enormous outcrop (15 minutes from the car park).

The climbing: stamina climbing on steep terrain.
Approach: 15 minutes
Number of routes: 17
Lenght of pitches: from 15m to 40m (70m rope recommended)
Difficulty: from 6a to 8a (mostly 7)
Suitable for beginners: no
Orientation: est
Height: 1680m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from May to October. Summer is the best time
WEB: this site


11 – Landro
Tra quelle presenti in questo elenco, questa falesia è sicuramente quella che offre l’avvicinamento più comodo. La palestra si raggiunge da Cortina percorrendo la strada statale n. 51 di Alemagna in direzione Dobbiaco. Superato il valico di Cimabanche, si prosegue e si oltrepassa il bivio di Carbonin per Misurina; meno di un chilometro dopo il bivio, passando alla base di strapiombi che incombono sulla strada statale, si trova sulla destra un piccolo slargo, dove si può parcheggiare. Di fronte, un sentiero porta in meno di cinquanta metri alla base della parete. Alzandosi ulteriormente verso sinistra (sud) si raggiunge il settore alto in cinque minuti di cammino.
Getting there:

The climbing: some easy angled slab climbing, in the overhanging section the routes are athletic .
Approach: 2 minutes
Number of routes: 60
Lenght of pitches: from 12m to 25m
Difficulty: from 5a to 8b (mostly 6)
Suitable for beginners: yes
Orientation: est
Height: 1420m
Climb if it rains: yes
Best time of year: from April to October.
Guidebook: Juri Chiaromonte – "Arrampicata sportiva e boulder nel sudtirolo" – Edizioni Raetia, 2007.


12 – Franchi (Landro 2)
Anche la falesia Franchi offre un accesso eccezionalmente comodo. Essa esiste già da qualche tempo, ma solo in questi ultimi anni è maggiormente frequentata. La palestra si raggiunge da Cortina percorrendo la strada statale n. 51 di Alemagna in direzione Dobbiaco. Superato il valico di Cimabanche, si prosegue e si oltrepassano il bivio per Misurina e il Lago di Landro. Poco dopo il lago, sulla sinistra si trova l’Hotel Tre Cime, nei cui pressi si parcheggia. La parete, formata da una dolomia di scogliera non stratificata, è ben visibile dietro all’ albergo.
Getting there:

The climbing: steeply overhanging powerful routes.
Approach: 2 minutes
Number of routes: 22
Lenght of pitches: from 15m to 22m
Difficulty: from 6a to 8b (mostly 7 and 8)
Suitable for beginners: no
Orientation: est
Height: 1406m
Climb if it rains: yes
Best time of year: from April to October
Guidebook: Juri Chiaromonte – "Arrampicata sportiva e boulder nel sudtirolo" – Edizioni Raetia, 2007
WEB: Bergtotal


13 – Val Rienza
La falesia è situata alla base del versante meridionale del Monte Rudo, in un ambiente spettacolare proprio di fronte alle pareti nord delle Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Per l'accesso, bisogna dapprima parcheggiare nel medesimo luogo indicato per la falesia Franchi – Landro. Qui si imbocca verso est la strada sterrata che attraversa la spianata antistante (sentiero n. 10 e 102). Ci s’immette nella Val Rienza proseguendo in salita lungo la strada, fino a trovare una tabella che indica il sentiero per la falesia, sulla sinistra (nord).
Getting there:

The climbing: technical stamina climbing; crimps, shallow pockets, holes.
Approach: 50/60 minutes
Number of routes: 55
Lenght of pitches: from 10m to 36m
Difficulty: from 4a to 8a (mostly 6 and 7)
Suitable for beginners: yes (few easy pitches)
Orientation: south
Height: 1600m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from June to October
Guidebook: Juri Chiaromonte – "Arrampicata sportiva e boulder nel sudtirolo" – Edizioni Raetia, 2007.


14 – San Bodo
La palestra di San Bodo è situata nel comune di San Vito di Cadore, alla base del versante meridionale della Croda Marcora. La falesia è la parte più bassa e più sinistra (nord) di un’ampia fascia rocciosa, immersa in un bel bosco di pini, che sovrasta l’abitato di Chiapuzza. Per l’accesso, provenendo da Cortina e prima di entrare nel paese di San Vito, si trova l’Albergo Cima Belprà, presso il quale è possibile parcheggiare. Da qui si sale al casello dell’ex ferrovia e si trova l’indicazione per San Bodo, che si raggiunge percorrendo un sentiero molto ripido.
Getting there:

The climbing: technical vertical walls that require excellent footwork.
Approach: 20 minutes
Number of routes: > 50
Lenght of pitches: from 10m to 27m
Difficulty: from 4b to 8b (mostly 6 and 7)
Suitable for beginners: no
Orientation: west and south/west
Height: 1380m
Climb if it rains: no
Best time of year: from April to November.


15 – Erto
This crag is not in the Cortina area, but it has historical significance in that it marked the evolution of climbing in the larger area of Northern Veneto (to which Cortina belongs). Though there is a "no big deal" section, Erto is famous for its large number of difficult routes. In addition, large overhanging rocks protect climbers in case of heavy rains. Though long use has made some of the routes a bit slippery, the crag much deserves a visit.
Getting there: from Cortina, to reach Erto you take State road 51 ("Alemagna") southbound. Once in the town of Longarone (49 kilometers, about 30 miles from Cortina), take state road 251, following the signs to the Vajont dam. Right after the dam, to the left the crag is immediately evident. The trip is about 50 minutes from Cortina.

The climbing: steeply overhanging powerful routes.
Approach: 1 minut
Number of routes: > 160
Lenght of pitches: from 10m to 35m
Difficulty: from 6a to 9a (mostly 7 and 8)
Suitable for beginners: yes ("No Big" area- many pitches grade 4 and 5)
Orientation: south
Height: 780m
Climb if it rains: yes (no "No Big" area)
Best time of year: all the year. Not in the coldest days of winter.
Guidebook: Climband Belluno - "Le falesie della Valle del Piave" - Edizioni Rocciaviva, Belluno.

STAMPA

I recommend this book to English speaking climbers:

"Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo"
by Roberto Casanova

The most beautiful crags aound Cortina: Cinque Torri, Bèco d’Ajàl, Campo e Volpèra, Colfiere, Crèpe de Oucèra bassi, Crèpe de Oucèra alti, Sòn Pòuses, Sass Dlacia, San Bodo, La Zoppa.